You're not king of the hill in Utah until you've climbed the state's tallest mountain - Kings Peak (13,528 feet above sea level) - where you stand 9,268 feet (almost 1.8 miles) higher than Salt Lake's Temple Square in Utah's thinnest air (about 40 percent less oxygen than at sea level).
To set the record straight, this peak was not named on the basis of its premier height. Its namesake was Clarence King, director of the first U.S. Geological Survey team that came through Utah in 1867-71.Ironically, King himself was never aware of Utah's tallest point since it went undiscovered until 24 years ago. Initial measurements erroneously pegged South Kings peak (about one-half mile south of today's Kings Peak) as Utah's tallest, at only 13,498 feet.
Revised measurements in 1966 using improved technology not only found North Kings Peak (previously unnamed) to be Utah's tallest, but also revised the height of the original Kings Peak to be 14 feet taller - 13,512, solidifying its claim as Utah's second-highest.
Kings Peak is not easy to identify in 1990 either. It has no dominant features and looks drab in comparison to other nearby peaks. Also, since there are 24 other peaks over 13,000 feet in the Uintas (only nine of which are named), Kings Peak blends in.
On top of Kings Peak, a metal plaque describes its namesake. There is also a small pile of rocks, and the peak itself is nothing more than stacked rock slabs. From the top, the view is breathtaking, and even the Wasatch Mountains are visible to the west. (Salt Lake City is almost straight west of Kings Peak, about 88 miles away.)
Late July/August is the most ideal period to hike Utah's tallest peak since the snow usually is gone by then. On a typical August day, as many as 40 climbers may conquer Kings Peak. September also can be a pleasant time, but the nights are much cooler.
Three days is the minimum time possible for a roundtrip visit to Kings Peak, and that's rushing it. Four to five days would be more comfortable.
How tough is the Kings Peak hike? It ranks as one of the toughest hiking climbs in Utah. It's a trek for only the fittest and most determined of individuals and is the kind of potentially hazardous hike where a wise person wouldn't want to be responsible for the safety of young hikers or a Boy Scout troop.
- Climbing Kings Peak:
There are many starting points to Utah's tallest point, but the shortest and most popular route is from Henry's Fork.
To reach Henry's Fork trailhead from Salt Lake, go to Wyoming on I-80, continuing 32 miles past Evanston to Wyoming 410. Travel 14 miles south to Mountain View. It's 10 more paved miles until the last 22 miles of gravel road (OK for car travel) to Henry's Fork (9,600-foot elevation). Total mileage from Salt Lake City to the trailhead is about 165 miles, or 31/2 hours.
(Note: There are restrooms, but no water is currently available at the trailhead.) Nearby China Meadows is another, slightly longer trailhead option. It connects with the Henry's Fork trail at Elkhorn crossing.
Rick Schuler, recreation forestry technician at the Mountain View, Wyo., Ranger Station, said Henry's Fork area is well-used in the summer and that Dollar Lake (a seven-mile hike in, 10,875-foot elevation) is the most popular camping/fishing spot. It's not uncommon to find 50 vehicles parking at the trailhead on a typical weekday, he said.
Water is available at a spring to the east of Dollar Lake, Schuler said. He reported all the area's trails in good condition and said that camping spots are available throughout Henry's Fork. Other popular lakes in the area include Bear Lake and Henry's Fork Lake. Mosquitoes are plentiful in the area.
A map of the High Uintas, available from the U.S. Forest Service, is a necessity because there is only a handful of signs along the trails. At such high altitudes, only stacks of rocks ("cairns") mark the trails.
It's an all-day trek from upper Henry's Fork to Kings Peak and back. The safest route is to go over Gunsight Pass (11,888 feet high) and descend about 600 feet into Painter Basin (with its many swampy areas) and turn right (west) up to Anderson Pass (12,700-foot elevation). This approxiamtely seven-mile hike takes three to fours hours, one way. (Note: Since one key hiking sign in the middle of Painter Basin has confusing directions, be sure not to miss the right turn or you may end up traveling three miles out of the way to Trail Rider Pass.)
The other, more daring option to reach Kings Peak is a shortcut up a rock-slide slope, located about one-half mile to the right (west) of Gunsight Pass. (Kings Peak is the mountain that peeks through the top of this opening and looks like a sinking ship.)
This makeshift, three-mile route is very popular because its saves about two hours - one-way travel time - to Anderson Pass. But it's also very dangerous with a steep 1,300-foot climb up loose material.
From Anderson Pass, there's no sign pointing to Kings, but it is the nearest peak (southeast direction). The final half-mile (828-foot altitude gain) is a mountain climb, not a hike (since it requires the use of your hands, too). This section travels upward, across a string of 100 percent rock slabs (some of which are loose) along an unmarkable path.
Climbers should be cautious of their footing because one slip could mean a gash in the leg or arm. Also be aware of incoming storms since lightning danger is severe on the top of Kings Peak (wet rocks would also be slippery). Winds are usually fierce from Anderson Pass upward.
Several narrow points along the way provide breathtaking views with dizzying backdrops to the basins below. It takes as much time to climb back down to Anderson Pass as it does to go up to Kings Peak because of the rugged, uneven terrain.
Horses are very popular in the Henry's Fork area and could make it to Anderson Pass via Painter Basin, but could not travel up the rock slide shortcut nor the final assault up Kings Peak. Taking dogs to Kings Peak is not wise because of the many sharp rocks and cliffs. Motorized vehicles or mountain bicycles are prohibited in the High Uintas Primitive area.
Mild altitude sickness is a possible problem for some hikers, even physically fit individuals, when hiking/camping at 10,000-foot plus altitudes. Headache, nausea, breathing difficulties and sleep disruption are the most common symptoms of this illness. People coming up from very low elevations are especially vulnerable. Don't hike Kings Peak if you feel you have altitude sickness.
The best way to prevent altitude sickness is to allow several extra days to acclimate, but aspirin, salt restriction and extra water (a minimum of five quarts a person per day) may also help. Altitude sickness will completely disappear at lower elevations.
Since the nearest telephone from Kings Peak is more than 30 miles away, safety should always be a prime concern of hikers.
- Lynn Arave and Wayne Arave hiked to Kings Peak on July 30-Aug. 1.