I ate my first piece of fry bread at a pueblo outside of Santa Fe almost 20 years ago. When the teenagers operating the makeshift booth at the festival asked if I wanted chiles or honey as a topping, I calmly asserted, "Chiles, please."
Perhaps they quickly saw through my pretense of going native. The thick, just ever so slightly chewy, piping hot fry bread was lathered at least two inches thick with freshly roasted green chile peppers. On a scale of 1 to 10 for hotness, these were a 20.The youngsters snickered as I took my first bite of this open-faced soft shell taco the size of a baseball glove. They watched eagerly as I finished the last morsel. Numb, but victorious, I wiped off my dripping mouth as well as the sweat that had started pouring from my crimson brow with the first bite.
At that moment I knew I had just sampled the essential American food, a far cry from all the ham and bean suppers I had feasted on as a youth in Puritan New England. My baptism by gastronomical fire began a longstanding love affair with the Southwest that still smolders today.
All of these memories were recently resurrected by a recent weeknight meal at the Dine' Cafe, a modest eatery located in a small shopping mall in West Valley City. For over 15 years, proprietor Jean Lynch and her family have served Navajo and Mexican specialties with the kind of freshness, taste and flair that characterize the simplicity and elegance of the Southwest.
As I feasted on our Navajo tacos, hand-patted pieces of fry bread covered with chili beans, cheese, onions, lettuce and tomato, I relived some of my early memories of Native American food. While the uncluttered interior cannot compare to the clear blue skies and distinctive red rocks of the New Mexico landscape, Lynch has decorated the walls with beautiful artistic expressions of the Southwest - kachina dolls, sandpaintings, bowls and paintings. Her eye as a former dealer in Native American jewelry and artwork is also apparent with the presentation of the plates.
One of the Dine' trademark specialties is the Navajo burrito, a large frybread stuffed with meat, melted cheese, onions and smothered with either red or green chili sauce. It looms steaming on the plate like a mist-shrouded mesa off in the distant horizon.
In these health-conscious days, the Dine' offers low cholesterol choices of meat, such as ground turkey in place of ground beef or ham in the Navajo burrito. Customers can also choose to have their fry bread prepared in vegetable oil.
We tried several of the specials, as well as an enchilada dinner ($6.25) which includes two enchiladas, refried beans, green salad and Spanish rice. Each was served steaming from the kitchen. Both the burritos and taco receive additional zip from the red chili sauce, a rich peppery blend of chiles and tomato. We also enjoyed the mild richness of the green chile sauce, which can be ordered with the Navajo chile bowl ($4.75). It is a frybread bowl filled with red or green chile covered with cheese.
Newcomers to the Dine' might be a little taken aback by the prices, which range from $4.75 for the papoose size taco to the $5.75 for the buck size. The Navajo burrito averages around $5.50. But when one stops to consider the hand care and freshness in each serving along with the generous portions, the food is easily worth it.
Dine' Cafe offers those who long for a taste of the Southwest a chance to escape from urban tedium and indulge in the essential even mystical elements of an enchanting part of America's unique heritage.
Rating: * * * *
Dine' Cafe, 4616 S. 4000 West, West Valley City. 969-8641. Open Monday through Friday, from 11 a.m. until 8:45 p.m. Saturday, from 1 p.m. until 8:45 p.m. Closed Sunday and holidays. Accepts check with guarantee card and major credit cards. Orders also prepared for take out.
- RECENT DINING OUT REVIEWS:
The Bluebird Cafe, 19 N. Main, Logan. 752-3155. One of Utah's historic restaurants is once again thriving under new ownership. Traditional American favorites, as well as freshly made fountain treats and homemade candies, are specials of the house. * * * *
The Border Cafe, 3640 Highland Drive, 277-2083. Large portions, a somewhat noisy interior, and Southwest motif and menu characterize this restaurant that joins a growing trend toward a region of the country that is both tranquil and engaging. Specialties include mesquite broiled meats and mild roasted chile salsas. * * *
Hampton's Ford Stage Stop and Inn, 3585 Bigler Road, Collinston. 458-3301 or 257-3889. This beautifully restored two-story stone restaurant once was one of the major stage stops along the crossroads of the West. The local scenery as well as warm hospitality and hardy homemade cuisine should please just about everyone's hunger for good food and the old West. * * * 1/2
Alta Lodge, Sunday Brunch, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta. 322-4631. An exhaustive international buffet of cold and hot dishes that dazzles the palate. The experience is made even more enjoyable by the beautiful canyon setting and the relaxed pace nurtured by the staff. * * * * 1/2