On a recent trip to the Midwest I spent a wonderful evening reminiscing with some old high school chums. Both are successful attorneys and their home reflects a comfortable affluence. What I found interesting was the Southwest influence throughout their home, from coyote carvings on gnarled wooden tables to Navajo rugs and prints of Monument Valley in their living room.
When I asked if either had been to Sante Fe or anywhere near the Southwest, both workaholics said they hardly have time to take a weekend break on the Great Lakes, let alone a longer trip to a part of the United States that is fast becoming a trend setter in fashion, design and, of course, cuisine. But when they do think about an escape, it is to the Southwest.Encounters like this are becoming more common for those of us who long ago realized the innate beauty and enchantment of Santa Fe and its surrounding landscape.
Mexican food, or Tex-Mex, as it has been called, is characterized by a spicy and occasionally heavy-handed approach with certain ingredients, such as hotter peppers, heavier sauces, lots of melted cheese. But the Southwest approach softens the edges of Tex-Mex with roasted chilis, more subtle seasonings, mesquite grilling and lighter sauces. It is a style more representative of the soul-stretching terrain itself.
I was certainly curious about the name of the Border Cafe, which claimed to serve Southwest cuisine, according to satisfied friends. I certainly wasn't eager to indulge in more of the Tex-Mex border food I associate with teeming border towns like Nogales or El Paso.
While the geography of the name might confuse some of us jaded by past experiences along the Rio Grande, the Border Cafe's interior is distinctly Southwest. The motif is accentuated by pastel colors, tile floors and Southwest artifacts.
My favorite touch was the sterling bolo ties with a cattle's skull, imitating Georgia O'Keefe, worn by the attentive waiters and waitresses. The Western-style shirts were a bit too much like Tex Ritter, however.
The interior on our weeknight visit was fairly noisy, no doubt effected by the hard tile acoustics.
We sampled a selection of the moderate to pricy selections on the menu, which features a cross section of Southwest and traditional Mexican favorites. Prices range from around $3.50 for most of the appetizers to Border specialties, averaging $8.50 for dinners served with rice, black beans and sweet corn cake.
Two of the appetizers were adequate. The half-dozen empanadas - small, deep-fried, dough pockets filled with cheese, bits of bacon, corn and onions - were somewhat bland. Two mild chili sauces added the needed flavor, with the roasted chili sauce more distinctive than the red salsa. The mix of yellow and blue corn chips on the nachos was a generous portion, though there were scant toppings of whole cooked black beans, melted cheese, tomatoes and jalapenos promised on the menu. Again salsa added the necessary zip.
Other appetizers include peel-and- eat Mexican spiced shrimp, barbecue chicken wings, quesadilla, guacamole, and chips and salsa. Ala carte salad offerings include broiled chicken breast with papaya, avocado stuffed with shrimp, beef fajitas on fresh greens with mustard dressing, pasta tossed with smoked chicken, corn and chilis and a green salad with cilantro dressing. These range in price from $2.25 to $6.50.
Four of the entrees reflect a kitchen that has the basic skills firmly in place. The grilled halibut Vera Cruz was perfectly moist, as was the mesquite broiled chicken breast. It was covered with a smoked chili butter and served atop grilled onions, which detracted from the subtle flavors of the chili butter.
Some of the imbalances in seasonings also lessened the impact of the other dishes, like the enchiladas, which could have used more of the smoky chili sauces and less melted cheese. The chili relleno, probably the biggest chili I'd ever seen in this particular dish, was served hot, though was barely spicy. Again the portions are more than generous and the presentations colorful. The fajitas, too, were nicely prepared and served hot. They just lacked any distinctive flavor. I felt the flavors could have been bolder.
Eight Mexican combination plates are offered on the menu, from $7 to $9. Other Border Cafe specialties include the Rojo, fresh pasta tossed with roasted tomatoes and mesquite broiled chicken; Chula, broiled pork tenderloin with barbecue sauce; and Tila, mesquite broiled filet Mignon served with grilled onions. Chimichangas and a choice of enchiladas round out the bill of fare.
The Border Cafe, open since April, offers local diners a chance to sample the gradually increasing interest in Southwest cuisine. While its food doesn't have the flair of Park City's Nacho Mama's, it is equal to the moderate approaches of the other Southwest restaurants in the valley.
Rating: * * *
The Border Cafe, 3640 Highland Drive, 277-2083. Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner served from 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; till 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Sunday open from 5 p.m. Accepts major credit cards and check with guarantee card.