Most Americans readily associate the name of Gandhi with India. His forceful yet non-violent stand against the British made him not only a hero with most of his own countrymen, but also a notable figure around the globe. Our picture of Gandhi might be that of a frail bespeckled man, seated cross-legged, speaking softly to hosts of his followers about national independence. The gentle David taking on the mighty Goliath of the British Empire.
I reflected on some of these images as we approached Gandhi's, one of three of Salt Lake's Indian restaurants that have opened during the past few months. Situated in the unobtrusive Lamplighter Square, made even more inaccessible by the construction on Foothill Boulevard, Gandhi's is quietly taking on a restaurant marketplace that has been a formidable foe to small ethnic restaurants. The closings of the Brazilian Brothers and VJ Tacos reflect the risks associated with similar ventures.Open just over a month, Gandhi's presents traditional Indian food with simple elegance. Our sari-clad hostess seated us at our table with several pieces of Indian artwork nearby. Their beauty and intricacy were somewhat overshadowed by a large ship's wheel and empty fish tank, leftovers from the former tenant, a seafood restaurant. Sitar music played pleasantly in the background, more effectively underscoring the mood than the sparse decor.
About 10 moderately priced entrees are the main offerings on the menu, priced from $7 to $10 for dinners, which include soup, nan (oven cooked bread), rice and payasam, a sweet tapioca pudding dessert.
We were tempted by some of the appetizers such as samosa ($1.50), small fried pies filled with vegetables in a curry seasoned sauce. The two pieces were served hot, filled with potato, peas and livened by a choice of either hot or mild chutney. Dosa ($3.50), a large light plate-size crepe filled with with potato curry, was also an interesting and flavorful dish.
Other dishes include pakodi, fried vegetables coated with spicy lentil flour; idli, steamed rice cakes; and sambar, a rich lentil soup.
We sampled four of the entrees, with only one clear disappointment. A special marinated and baked chicken ($6.95), coated with flour and herbs, was disappointing; it was overcooked and dry. The rice pilaf, white rice with bits of carrots and peas, which came out with all of the entrees, was somewhat ordinary.
But three of the other entrees were wonderfully flavorful, redolent with curry that was just properly overstated. Our favorite was the lamb curry, chucks of tender lamb in a golden sauce. The shrimp curry was also very good, with just a hint of tomato in the sauce. The kurma, a potato and mixed vegetable curry, also had a distinctive flavor, accented with yogurt.
We were also impressed with the nan, chewy, round bread pieces, doused in clarified butter. Another palate pleaser was the payasam, a sweet warm tapioca pudding flavored with cardomum, citrus zest and chunks of fresh fruit.
A la carte choices include chapati, pan-fried flat wheat bread; papad, spiced crisp wafers; and poori, deep-fried puffed wheat bread.
Additional curry choices include eggplant, channa masala (garbanzo beans), and chicken. Raita, a cold salad of cucumbers, onions and tomato with a yogurt dressing, is also served, along with several beverages, such as lassi, a yogurt drink. We recommend the sweetened version for newcomers.
Gandhi's is a pleasant restaurant with some pleasing choices. Like its namesake, it has an uphill battle against some of the current vagaries of the marketplace.
Rating: * * *
Gandhi's, 1615 Foothill Blvd., 581-0222. Open for lunch, 11:30 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Dinner served 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. Accepts checks with guarantee card and major credit cards.
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Dine' Cafe, 4616 S. 4000 West, West Valley City. 969-8641. Navajo tacos and the trademark Navajo burrito, made with fresh handmade fry bread, are the specialties of this modest eatery. Customers should also notice the wonderful Native American art which decorates the interior. * * * *
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