I really should not have been surprised when a native-Georgian neighbor, a relative newcomer to Utah, asked if I had ever heard of the Southern Plantation. I was impressed with her knowledge of local restaurant lore. After all, this small locally owned eatery had made several attempts over the years to find the right combination of location and menu only to meet with failure.
In its earliest days, in an old home on 400 South near 300 West, it featured a full service menu, with more than a touch of inconsistency. Up until the past few months it appeared to have faded into the cityscape like so many other efforts at authentic ethnic food.In its current locale of about 6 months, just a few blocks north of the beautifully refurbished South High campus of Salt Lake Community College, the persistent and plucky owners of the Southern Plantation are giving it another try.
In its small quarters, it offers an exclusively takeout menu. It looks like just the right fit. There is none of the awkwardness or amateurish service that plagued its earlier efforts. And it offers another spectrum to the multicultured rainbow of adjacent eateries that include Mexican, Korean and Vietnamese dishes.
While cooler weather might dampen those who delight in a soul food picnic in the park, we found our takeout luncheon just as sunny inside atop our dining room table as a park's picnic table.
As we opened the different steaming containers, atmosphere became secondary. We understood how the different aromas of catfish, fried chicken, hush puppies and other fixin's could cure the homesickness of our friend from Atlanta.
The large half slab of barbecued ribs ($8.50) was our favorite. Meaty, juicy pork ribs doused in a mild but slightly tangy sauce. A side order of the medium hot sauce was just right for an extra occasional dunk. I imagine the effect of the really hot sauce would have been "explosive," like the hats worn by the friendly kitchen crew when we picked up our order.
The half barbecued chicken dinner ($5.25 which includes two vegetable side orders and bread) was also a generous and well-prepared portion. The fried chicken was a little less distinctive; the catfish ($5.95) had a nice flavor.
We sampled each of the side orders, at least two of which come with the dinners. The greens had an understated bite, the homemade baked beans were laced with brown sugar, and the cole slaw had a modest but tasty mild dressing. The potato salad had pieces of dill pickle; the black-eyed peas were somewhat bland when compared with the other vegetables.
We had to settle for a sweet peach cobbler for dessert; they had run out of the sweet potato pie, quite the favorite of Southern Plantation customers. Desserts cost from $1.50 to $1.85.
Other menu selections include rib sandwich ($4.95), rib dinner ($6.50), catfish sandwich ($4.45), fried chicken sandwich ($2.75), barbecued chicken sandwich ($3.75), and a bucket of either fried or barbecued chicken ($10). Carolina or regular hot links are priced from $1.95 to $2.45.
After years of searching for a comfortable niche in the Salt Lake dining scene, the Southern Plantation looks like it has found a home.
Rating: * * * 1/2
The Southern Plantation, 1465 S. State. 467-7737. Open from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; until 1 a.m. on Friday and midnight on Saturday. Free delivery with $25 minimum order. Carry out menu only. Does not accept checks or credit cards.
- NOTE: Because of illness, longtime friend and restaurateur Mary Gallo, known to her many friends as Mama Gallo, has had to close the doors of her comfortable little restaurant in Salt Lake's Rose Park neighborhood. Mary was as generous with her affection toward her regular customers (most of the area's law enforcement community) as she was with heaping portions of pasta and antipasto salads. A heartfelt wish for a speedy recovery and restful retirement.