The recognizable characteristics remain the same. Since the beginning of time, an apple's looked like an apple: a bulbous shape, elongated in some varieties; squashed in others; a rich, red color, a bold green covering or a combination of hues blending in a subtle blush.

But despite the overall familiarity of the fall apple harvest, some new varieties clamor for space on the produce counter, a counter that boasts an abundant crop this season.Ever since Mrs. Thomas Smith dumped her trash on the ditch bank near her Australian home and inadvertently planted the seeds from a crab apple - an apple planting that grew into the Granny Smith - there has been a revolution in the world of apples.

Granny Smith's evolution began in the 1850s, but the crispy, tart apples finally captured consumer interest in the early 1970s.

Other new varieties make a more efficient bid for popularity.

Take the Jonagold, for example.

A creative blend of Golden Delicious and Jonathan, the apple possesses a sweet flavor and tender skin with a touch of tartness. With a soft mottle of red and gold, the apple has a crisp texture for eating, but works wonders as a cooking apple.The innovative apple grabbed top honors in successive Northwest apple tastings, according to Bob Norton, horticulturist with Washington State University and Jim McCausland of Sunset magazine.

Despite the increasing popularity of the Jonagold, Ray Allred, Utah County apple grower, prefers a spicy new version of the Golden Delicious called the Royal Gala, a yellow apple with red stripes.

"We've planted thousands of Gala trees in Utah," Allred says, "but this is the first year we've had a substantial harvest."

Orem grower Morris Ercanbrach sees the Gala as necessary in the apple market.

"We need to have other varieties that taste good," Ercanbrach says. "We've worked so long on the cosmetics of the apple that we've forgotten the taste. The Gala has much more flavor."

Increased consumer demand for the early harvested apple quickly exhausts the supply, but more trees are being planted, Allred says.

"The Gala takes the heat of our climate, making it easier to manage here than the Jonagold. But the cool September helped all the apples increase in flavor before the harvest."

"Prices are high right now," Ercanbrach says, "as much as $34 for the top grades of Galas. We just need to get more of them available so the price will come down."

The Orem apple man predicts the Royal Gala will become as popular as the Granny Smith.

But Allred also cites the growing supply of Fuji apples in the American marketplace.

Long recognized as the most popular apple in Japan, the Fuji threatens to export its wide-spread acceptance abroad to this country.

The sweet-crisp apple has a unique flavor and claims a remarkable storage advantage.

"It tastes a lot like a Red Delicious," says Allred, "but it doesn't go soft, even when it's not refrigerated."

Some growers say the late-harvested apple actually improves with age.

The local climate may challenge extensive production of the Fuji here, but Ercanbrach replaced peach orchards with a spring planting of the Japanese fruit. Grocery stores should have access to the apple until the first of the year, then again in June when the Australian harvest arrives.

Other apples diversifying the produce counter are Elstar, a European type that is red over yellow with a sweet/sharp flavor. The Melrose, a combination of Jonathan and Red Delicious, is excellent for both cooking and eating. A New Zealand product, the Braeburn, is a late-maturing green apple similar to a Granny Smith, but not as tart.

Sorting through bushels of different apples, more than 2,500 grow in the United States and about 7,500 worldwide, requires a discriminating palate as well as persistence, but the rewards are worthwhile, says John Rice, president of the International Apple Institute.

"The apple family offers many unique combinations of flavors and textures that can make the selection of an apple a very interesting experience. Sophisticated consumers are discovering they can easily change the flavor of a favorite apple recipe by selecting a different apple. Try several apple varieties at once to enjoy the differences in flavor, color and texture," Rice adds.

Whether you indulge in the exploration of new tastes or cling to familiar fruit, it's time to harvest a bumper crop of apples.

RECIPES\

Bread Pudding with Apples

1 1/2 pounds baking apples, peeled and sliced

1/4 cup butter

2 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1 1-pound loaf French bread

1/4 cup butter, softened

1/4 cup raisins

1 quart milk

4 eggs

2/3 cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla

Nutmeg

Lightly whipped cream or Caramel Sauce

Caramel Sauce:

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup white sugar

1/2 cup cream or evaporated milk

2 tablespoons butter Peel, core and thinly slice apples. Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large heavy skillet. Add apples, sprinkling with 2 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon. Saute over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring frequently.

Remove crust from bread and cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes. Liberally grease a deep 2 1/2 quarts baking dish with the remaining 1/4 cup butter, then add remainder to the bread cubes. Combine bread, raisins, apples and the pan juices in the baking dish.

Blend the eggs, milk, sugar, vanilla and nutmeg, beating lightly with a whisk. Pour over bread and apples. Set dish in a shallow pan filled with 1-inch warm water. Bake at 325 degrees for 1 1/2 hours or until set. Serve hot with lightly whipped cream or Caramel Sauce.

For sauce, combine all ingredients in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil and boil 3 minutes. Makes 10 servings.- From A Private Collection 2

Acorn Squash with Applesauce

2 acorn squash

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1/4 cup raisins

1 1/2 cups applesauce

1/4 cup brown sugar

3 tablespoons walnuts, chopped

Butter Scrub and halve squash; remove seeds. Place, cut side up in a baking dish. Mix lemon juice, raisins, applesauce, brown sugar and chopped walnuts. Spoon mixture into the cavities of the squash and dot with butter. Pour 1/2 inch of water into the bottom of a baking dish, cover and bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. Remove cover and bake for 30 minutes more. Serves 4.

Puffy Apple Pancakes

1 tablespoon butter

3 medium apples, peeled, cored and sliced

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/3 cup raisins

1/4 cup concentrated apple juice

Pancakes:

3 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Powdered sugar In skillet, melt butter. Add apple slices and saute. Add sugar, cinnamon, raisins and apple juice concentrate. Cook until apples are just tender, about 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Put oven-proof 10-inch skillet in oven while you mix batter. Beat eggs lightly; add milk, flour and salt, stirring vigorously. Add remaining butter to hot skillet, swirling to cover the surface evenly. Pour the batter into the skillet. Spoon apple filling into the center of the batter. Bake 30-40 minutes or until pancake is puffed, brown and firm to touch. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serves 6.- From The Four-Star American Community Cookbook

Parsnip and Apple Puree

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup water

4 large Granny Smith apples

2 pounds parsnips, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup chicken stock

4 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces

2 tablespoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground coriander

Freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine lemon juice and water in a large bowl. Peel, core and slice apples, dropping the pieces into the acidulated water. Place the parsnips in a shallow baking pan. Add the apples, using a slotted spoon, and 1/4 cup of the acidulated water. Add the chicken stock. Dot the parsnips and apples with butter; sprinkle with brown sugar, coriander and pepper. Cover the dish and bake at 375 degrees 11/2 hours, stirring a few times during the baking.

Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and transfer the parsnips and apples with their cooking liquid to a food processor. Puree until smooth. Reheat if necessary in a covered oven-proof dish for 15 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Apple Brownies

1 cup butter

2 cups sugar

2 eggs, beaten

2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 cups tart apples, peeled and chopped

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped Combine butter, salt, sugar and eggs; add dry ingredients then fold in apples and nuts. Spread into a greased 9-by-13-inch pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 30-35 minutes. - From Gatherings

Apple Dapple Cake

2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups corn oil

3 eggs

3 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

3 cups tart apples, finely diced

2 cups pecans, chopped

2 teaspoon vanilla

Glaze:

1 cup brown sugar

1/4 pound butter

1/2 cup heavy cream Combine sugar and oil; beat in eggs, one at a time. Sift dry ingredients and stir into egg mixture. Beat in apples, nuts and vanilla. Pour into a liberally greased and floured 10-inch or 12-cup bundt pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 1 hour or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes and remove from pan.

Combine glaze ingredients and boil for 3 minutes. Reserving 1/3 cup, pour over warm cake. Just before serving, top with remaining glaze.- From San Francisco A La Carte

Oatmeal Pancakes with Jonathan Apples and Pecans

1 1/2 cups quick cooking oats

1 1/2 cups boiling water

1 egg

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons baking powder

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup sugar

1 cup milk

1/4 cup butter, melted

3 Jonathan apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1/2 cup pecans, chopped

1 tablespoon butter Combine oatmeal and boiling water. Let stand 5 minutes. Add egg, flour, baking powder, salt and sugar; mix. Stir in milk, melted butter, apples and pecans. Melt 2 tablespoon butter in a large, flat skillet or griddle over medium heat. When the butter begins to crackle, spoon on pancake batter to desired size. Gently flip pancakes when bubbles form around the edges and in the center. Turn and cook another minute; serve with maple syrup. Makes about 15 3-inch pancakes.

Fresh Apple Coffee Cake

4 cups unpeeled, finely chopped cooking apples

1/2 cup unsweetened orange juice, divided

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup margarine, softened

1 carton (8 oz.) frozen egg substitute, thawed

1/4 cup skim milk

3 cups cake flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

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Vegetable cooking spray 2 Tablespoons brown sugar

Combine apple, 1/4 cup unsweetened orange juice and cinnamon in a bowl; stir well and set aside.

Cream sugar and margarine until light and fluffy; add egg substitute and beat 4 minutes until well blended.

Combine remaining 1/4 cup orange juice and milk; set aside. Combine flour, baking powder and salt. Add dry ingredients alternately with milk. Stir in vanilla. Pour half batter in vegetable sprayed 10-inch tube pan; top with half of apple mixture and sprinkle with brown sugar. Bake at 350 degrees for 70 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes, remove from pan and cool on wire rack. Makes 16 servings.

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