What's bigger than a broiler but smaller than a turkey? The capon, of course, subject of much sniggering around Sunday dinner tables.

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Truth is, the capon really is a de-sexed rooster, surgically transformed at an early age so the bird will grow into a tender, juicy delicacy.The capon's growing period spans about 16 weeks, nearly triple that of conventional poultry; capons eat about twice the rations broilers do for each pound of weight gained. They turn out so meaty, in fact, that an eight-pound capon can feed eight people.

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