If we had known that the void left by the closing of the Upper Crust last June in Foothill Village would have been filled so enthusiastically and creatively by the Red Butte Cafe we would have shed a few less tears.
We confess that some saliva also dripped onto our bibs in anticipation of Red Butte's opening because of its link with the Peery Pub and Cafe, an establishment that has set its own high standard of gastronomic pleasure.If our two dinner visits of the past few weeks are any indication, the Southwestern-accented cuisine and electric atmosphere of Red Butte Cafe have carved another lofty niche on Salt Lake's culinary benchmark.
The interior, enlarged by about a fourth, is darker than its predecessor, underscored by muted sandstone colors and glyph-like marble inlays. The noise echoes, lending a certain liveliness. It is more the kind of ambiance for a celebration of one's first anniversary than where one would pop the question.
There is a celebratory sense about the colorful cuisine as well. A sweet and spicy mango chutney lent an orangy hue to the white and tender chunks of grilled chicken on the tandoori chicken appetizer ($3.25). Roasted corn and tomato salsas accented the roasted pepper, sausage and cheese-filled quesadilla ($2.95).
Potato, cheese and saffron and French onion soups both reflected consistency and even-handedness; the house creamy basil dressing with the mixed green salad was just sprightly enough, neither too sweet nor vinegary.
Two of the entrees were also nicely prepared and presented. There might have been more of the citrus butter with the almond encrusted coho salmon filet ($9.75) and the risoto was a scant relative of heartier versions, but we found the dish pleasing. The other entree was clearly more connected. Not only was the chicken breast ($8.75) tender but the pesto "gravy" (more a veloute with basil) was aromatic and complimentary to the chicken. Grilled parmesan roma tomatoes and spaghetti squash added color and fresh flavor to the platter.
We also sampled two of the sandwiches, an inventive and delicious grilled eggplant with sweet onion, fontina cheese, tomato and roasted pepper with basil mayo, and the tasty blackened chicken breast with a piquant creole relish (both $5.95).
The smoked turkey salad with torellini, bacon, bleu cheese, corn salsa, hard boiled egg and tomato comes with a full compliment of greens and is generous enough serving to share with two or more diners.
Other items on the menu include cold sandwiches (turkey and avocado, club, rare roast beef and swiss, vegetarian and smoked turkey and fontina; each $5.75); grilled sandwiches (sea bass with caper mayo and herbed chicken breast with roasted red bell peppers and fontina ($5.95); and ground chuck or ground turkey burgers. These are served with house pasta salad, chips and pickle, and can be combined with salads, soups with some price variation.
There are several appetizing salads on the menu as well as the grilled sea bass with green beans and olives, and Asian chicken breast with cilantro and peanut dressing, each around $6.
Enchiladas with spicy black beans; several kinds of pizza including shrimp and feta, roasted pepper and chicken, and tomato and basil; and penne pasta with duck sausage with dried tomato and basil cream sauce round out the eclectic menu.
Since desserts were such a part of the Upper Crust's reputation we were curious to see how Red Butte's kitchen would fare. The poppy seed cake with orange cream cheese frosting was sweet, full of poppy seeds, and quite good as was a light white chocolate cream cheese cake with blueberries. Even the chocolate ganache (layers of cake with mousse filling) torte was very good.
The Red Butte Cafe is a lot like its namesake. While there is the developed sense of order that the arboretum staff has brought to one of the area's botanical treasures, there are plenty of surprises and pleasures left for those who wander beyond the traveled trails. The same holds true for diners who venture into the somewhat unconventional yet engaging twists and turns of Red Butte's clever bill of fare.
Rating: * * * *
Red Butte Cafe, 1414 S. Foothill Drive, 581-9498. Open from 7 a.m. until 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; Sunday brunch, 9 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Accepts major credit cards and check with guarantee card.