Intimate impressions of Claude Monet detail his uncanny gift of illuminating a scene with varied degrees of light, but few know his penchant for gastronomic explorations.
Monet painted with precision, duplicating a single setting again and again to capture the changing nuances of light. The same meticulous style accompanied his love affair with food.Food preferences, recipes, menus and cooking notes were chronicled in a series of cooking journals, viewed by the artist's family as an invaluable contribution to the art of eating with grace and flair, as well as furor.
Monet flew off the handle if lunch appeared a minute past the scheduled 11:30 serving time or raged over a poorly prepared sauce.
A well-documented passion for food was limited only by a discerning, even fussy palate.
Not just any catch graced the dining table at Giverny, the exquisite country home Monet inhabited during the second half of his career. Pike from the backyard pond passed, but
ducks from the same pond were deemed too greasy forducks from the same pond were deemed too greasy for consumption. Foie gras was imported from the Alsace region while favored truffles arrived from Perigord.
Gardens at Giverny produced many of the elegant floral scenes that appear in Monet's work, but also furnished the household with profuse quantities of fresh vegetables, herbs and aromatics.
The 21/2-acre garden plot was divided into tidy geometric sections, carefully partitioned and often resembling a city zoning map. Root vegetables, leaf vegetables, bulbs and seeds claimed individual portions of the garden, while aromatics like Jerusalem artichokes grew in trenches.
Precision in planting was duplicated by the precision of the harvest.
Jean-Marie Toulgouat, a neighbor to the Giverny retreat, described the militaristic form dictated by Monet, "He ordered every meal, down to the smallest detail - the flowers on the table, the quantity of pepper on the salad, the moment the lettuce should be plucked from the garden."
The blue-tiled kitchen at Giverny was presided over by Marguerite, an imaginative cook in her own right, but Monet's second wife, Alice, supervised the household operations.
In addition to consulting with Monet on appropriate menus for the week's schedule of guests, Alice compiled shopping lists, organized the work of the servants, sorted the linens and frequently served as a hostess to the multitude of visitors Giverny attracted.
Whether company or family dining prevailed, the regimented menus catered to Monet's whims and preferences.
Claire Joyes relates in her book "Monet's Table" "that it was safest to serve the fanatic food that was nothing less than delicious."
Cook Marguerite recalled making a freezer full of one of the artist's favorites, banana ice cream, for a frequent Giverny picnic, when she discovered she'd mistakenly used salt instead of sugar in the recipe.
"Everyone had a good laugh over it - 20 years later,"
the cook admitted.
However tyrannical Monet appeared, untiring Marguerite continued to replicate recipes the artist collected in his travels or supervise the preparation of game, chores like the task of hanging a woodcock for fourteen days before cooking.
When the fowl arrived at the table, Monet assumed the carving task. When the menu included duck, he would remove the wings, sprinkle them with nutmeg, freshly ground pepper and coarse salt and then hand them back to the servant, who would take them back to the kitchen to broil under the hottest possible flame.
Another personalized touch in Monet's dining routines concerned his salad makings.
Joyes says his salads were chicory with garlic and croutons or dandelion greens. The dressing, however, was a large serving spoon full of freshly ground pepper and coarse salt, a drop or two of olive oil and one of wine vinegar - a spicy topping individually mixed at the dining table.
Though the incomparable Impressionist ruled the Giverny household with an iron hand, the peaceful, rural environment inspired his greatest works of art.
Works that occasionally included still-life arrangements of food like "The Basket of Grapes" or "Still Life with Melon."
Arrangements harvested from the garden-farm environment the artist so carefully cultivated.
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(Recipes)
Spring Onion Soup with Watercress Puree
1/4 cup unsalted butter
4 cups spring onions, sliced
3 tablespoons flour
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 bunches watercress, stemmed
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Chicken Stock:
2 quarts water
2 pounds chicken necks, backs and wings
2 carrots, trimmed and halved
1 rib celery, halved
1 medium onion, sliced
Bouquet garnish (1 spring parsley, 1 bay leaf, 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme and 3 peppercorns tied in a cheesecloth) Saute onions in butter; reduce heat and sprinkle with flour. Cook, stirring constantly for 4 minutes. Heat 2 cups stock, 2 cups milk, salt and pepper; gradually whisk into onion mixture. Simmer, stirring constantly, until soup begins to thicken, about 5 minutes. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. Puree soup in batches in processor or blender.
While soup is simmering, plunge watercress into large saucepan of simmering water; cook 30 seconds and drain. Squeeze to extract moisture, then combine in blender with 2 tablespoons milk; puree until smooth. Add cream and process long enough to blend. Ladle soup into heated bowls. Add watercress puree to soup, swirling into soup.
For stock, combine all ingredients in a large stock pot to boiling; reduce heat. Simmer, partially covered, 3-4 hours, skimming surface occasionally and adding water if needed to keep ingredients immersed. Strain through sieve lined with double thickness of cheesecloth; discard solids. Cool stock to room temperature; refrigerate, covered until cold. Remove and discard fat from surface.
Makes 8 1/2-cup soup servings.
- Note: Two one-half cups sliced leeks (white part only) plus 11/2 cups sliced scallions
substitute for spring onions.
Scallop and Spinach Terrine
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/4 pound mushrooms, finely chopped
1/2 pound spinach, stemmed and cleaned, (about 8 cups lightly packed)
1 cup fish stock or water
4 slices firm white bread, crusts removed and crumbled
11/4 pounds sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
2 eggs
1 egg white
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
Romaine lettuce, finely shredded
Lemon wedges
Herbed Mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks, at room temperature
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Pinch of red pepper
3/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup peanut oil
1 teaspoon fresh chives, minced
1 teaspoon fresh parsley, minced
1/2 teaspoon fresh tarragon, minced Saute onions and mushrooms in butter; cool.
Bring large saucepan of water to boil. Select 12 of the largest spinach leaves; blanch in boiling water 30 seconds then dip in cold water and drain. Plunge remaining spinach into boiling water; cook 3 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water; squeeze moisture from spinach.
Heat fish stock to boil; stir in bread crumbs until mixture forms a smooth paste; cool.
Select 6 of the largest scallops; cut lengthwise in half. Place one scallop half at one end of each blanched spinach leaf. Fold side of leaf over scallop; roll up to enclose scallop. Reserve.
Combine remaining scallops, the whole eggs, egg white, salt, pepper, nutmeg, reserved spinach and the cooled bread mixture in food processor or blender. Puree until smooth; fold in mushroom mixture.
Line 5-by-9-inch loaf pan with wax paper or parchment. Cover bottom with 1/3 of pureed scallop mixture. Arrange half the wrapped scallops over bottom layer, spacing evenly and leaving 1/2-inch border on all sides. Repeat layers once. Top with remaining pureed scallop mixture; spread top smooth. Cover surface with buttered foil.
Place loaf pan in baking pan large enough to hold it comfortably. Pour enough boiling water into baking pan to come half way up the sides of the loaf. Bake at 350 degrees for 1-11/4 hours. Remove from water bath; cool on wire rack to room temperature. Refrigerate, lightly weighted with two 1-pound food cans, overnight.
To serve, slice, place on bed of lettuce and garnish with lemon wedges and Herbed Mayonnaise.
For mayonnaise, combine egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, mustard and red pepper in food processor or blender; process until foamy. Very slowly add oils, a drop at a time; process until thick. Stir in herbs, cover and chill until serving time. Makes about 11/4 cups.
Molded Lemon Pudding
Unsalted butter and sugar for mold
4 lemons
1/4 cup creme de menthe
7 tablespoons sugar
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/4 cup flour
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
11/4 cups milk
6 egg yolks, at room temperature
7 egg whites, at room temperature
Pinch salt
1 ounce semisweet chocolate
1 tablespoon water
Lemon Sabayon 1 whole egg
2 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons dry white wine or grape juice
1 cup heavy cream Lightly butter 8-cup souffle dish or charlotte mold; sprinkle with sugar and tap out excess.
Grate zest from 2 of lemons; reserve. Pare zest from 2 remaining lemons into 1/4-inch wide strips. Combine strips, the creme de menthe and 1 tablespoon of sugar in small saucepan. Heat over low until almost all liquid is evaporated and zest is crystallized, 8-10 minutes. Remove zest; let dry, separated, on wire rack.
Beat 7 tablespoons butter, the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar and the flour in a large bowl until smooth. Beat in reserved grated lemon zest and the 6 tablespoons lemon juice.
Scald milk; gradually whisk into flour mixture. Continue cooking, stirring constantly until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; very gradually whisk in egg yolks. Transfer to large bowl; cool, stirring occasionally, to room temperature.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Beat egg whites and salt until stiff but not dry. Fold one fourth of the whites into pudding base. Fold in remaining whites; gently pour mixture into prepared souffle dish. Place dish in large baking pan; add enough to water to baking pan to come halfway up sides of souffle dish. Bake until top of pudding is golden brown and center is firm, about 50 minutes.
Remove souffle dish from water bath; cool on wire rack 10 minutes. Unmold onto large serving plate; cool to room temperature.
For Sabayon, combine egg, egg yolks, sugar, lemon juice and wine or grape juice in small pan; whisk until frothy. Continue whisking, over low heat until very thick and foamy. Remove from heat and whisk until cooled; fold in whipped cream.
Combine chocolate and 1 tablespoon water in a small saucepan; stir until melted.
Pour Sabayon over center of pudding, allowing it to flow down the sides and form a pool on serving plate. Swirl melted chocolate around base and garnish with mint sprigs and crystallized lemon zest.
Sesame Fish
1 package active dry yeast
2 cups warm water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, cooled
2 teaspoons salt
51/2-6 cups flour
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon milk
Sesame seeds Sprinkle yeast over water; stir to dissolve yeast. Stir in butter and salt. Gradually stir in as much of the flour as needed to from soft dough. Knead on floured surface, adding as much of the remaining flour as needed to form smooth elastic dough. Shape dough into smooth ball; place in greased bowl. Let rise, loosely covered, in warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch down, roll out 1/2-inch thick on lightly floured surface. Let dough rest, loosely covered 10 minutes. Cut fish shapes, 3-4 inches long, out of dough, using knife and cardboard form. Place 2 inches apart on lightly greased baking sheets.
Beat egg yolk and milk lightly in small bowl. Brush fish with egg wash; sprinkle with sesame seeds. Let fish rise until doubled, about 45 minutes. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Bake fish until golden brown, about 20 minutes.