Preservation of memories extends beyond journals, letters and photographs. Quilts, wedding dresses and needlework are other items that require special care if they are to be preserved for posterity.
As a textile conservator, I am often asked what can be done to preserve fabric objects.Preventative Conservation is the first step to prevent harm to a textile object, contemporary or historical, before it occurs. Monitor your objects and practice proper methods for cleaning, storing and handling. When this doesn't work, then consult a professional to have the conservation work done.
Keep in mind that preservation is an ongoing thing, not just a one-time process. In the past, conservation and restoration of textiles was primarily concerned with the cosmetic approach to making the piece look good. Now a person needs to have respect for the integrity of the piece, determine a proper course of treatment and make sure that a suitable course of treatment is given.
When looking at a textile, examine it for thin spots, small tears, holes, loose buttons, etc. Check the pleats, folds and tucks for breaking or splitting of the fibers. Folds become stress points where the fabric will deteriorate and eventually break. Reinforce tears and holes with washed cotton netting. Then examine the piece for fading from the sun, or stresses from strong chemicals used to clean the fabric.
Handling Textiles. The rule for handling period pieces is to wear white gloves, or at least wash and dry your hands thoroughly before handling the piece. Remove all jewelry, pins and other objects that could catch on the fabric. No food or drink should be allowed in the immediate area where you are working. Do not write on the fabric with ink. Use iron-on labels, or pin notes to it.
Textile Care Tips. Before doing anything with your fabric piece, sit down with it and write a report of what you see as the problem. Also record what you have done, and when you did it using the following guidelines:
- Environment: Environment refers to temperature, humidity and light considerations. Never place the fabric in direct sunlight, near heat or under fluorescent lights. The best temperature to store most fabrics is between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit; with a relative humidity of 40 to 50 percent. If you have fluorescent lights, they should be covered with UV filter shields. If the piece has been damaged by light, have a professional take care of it.
- Cleaning: If the fabric is silk, wool or similar materials, it should be professionally dry cleaned. If it is man-made fibers or cotton, generally you may clean it. Be certain, however, that you check each color to make sure it will not crock [color that rubs off dyed fabricT or "bleed." Know your fabrics and the dyes used!
Mend tears and holes before cleaning. To remove the dust, use a low power vacuum with a clean brush attachment, and place a fiberglass screen between the fabric and the vacuum brush. Never vacuum a piece that has attached objects, such as beads. Soak the piece on a fiberglass frame support for 1/2 hour at room temperature, then agitate carefully with your fingers. The water should be between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Never clean the piece with bleaches or detergents that contain "added brighteners." Do not wring or scrub the materials. Dry the item by laying it on an undyed towel and let it dry at room temperature. Do not starch the fabric before storing. Avoid hot ironing.
- Storage: Store your fabrics in the "living areas" of the home. Never store fabric pieces in plastic because it causes discoloration and a chemical reaction that results in rotting.
Mothballs or crystals and wood should not come in direct contact with the piece. Fabric pieces should be aired once a year. Do not hang them on the line. This will eventually result in the loss of the piece. Rather, lay a sheet on the ground or table and place the piece on top. Cover the piece with an additional sheet. This is to protect it from the sun and critters. Air it for several hours. Garments should never be folded for long lengths of time, they will eventually crease and then break at the folds. It is preferred to store them flat, but if space, size or other restrictions prevent this, roll them in acid-free tissue paper or clean muslin.
Velvet, velour and similar materials should be hung to avoid creases in the plush pile. Fabrics with beads or other added weight should be stored horizontally.
When folding material, soften the fold with a rolled piece of muslin in the fold proper. When folding or rolling, make sure there is a buffer of acid-free tissue or muslin between each layer to help cushion and reduce migration of colors. Replace acid-free tissue annually, or wash the muslin annually to remove acid and other chemical buildups. Also, check for infestation and development of any other problems.
- Bill Ormand is curator of collections at Pioneer Trail State Park. He also serves on the board of The Utah Heritage Quilt Project and the advisory board of the Nevada Heritage Quilt project as a quilt historian. He is ward music director in the Granger 15th Ward and assistant clerk in the Salt Lake Granger North Stake.