Some things old and some things new are wedded in a dual exhibition of art scenic and old lace at the National Museum of Women in the Arts.
What's old are some examples of the world's finest lacemaking from Brussels, including such royal finery as a court gown worn by Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. What's new are contemporary lace artworks ranging from almosttraditional woven fantasies to intimidating abstracts executed in wire.The antique fabrics come from the legendary collections of the Brussels Museum of Clothing and Lace. The contemporary works are winners from the Fifth International Lace Biennial, with entries from France, Holland, Italy, Spain and what used to be the Soviet Union.
Since its beginnings some 500 years ago in Italy and Flanders, lace making has offered artful weavers such freedom of design that the Italians called it punto in aria, "stitches in air." For centuries Venice and Brussels waged genteel war over whose weavings were finest; the Belgians finally established a commanding lead, only to be overtaken by the weaving machines of the Industrial Revolution.
Ever finer and more airy openwork culminated in gossamer laces so light but sturdy they could be layered almost indefinitely, enclosing rich ladies in nimbuses of lacework that were a delight to the eye and a dread to the washerwoman. Women's costumes were occasionally rivaled by those of dandies who might conceal a lacy perfumed handkerchief in one ruffled sleeve and a dagger in the other.
While traditional lace making has always been subordinate to the dictates of fashion and utility, no such constraints apply to the objects loosely-very loosely-grouped under the heading of lace artworks. It is an acquired taste, but this show is a likely place to acquire it.
STITCHES IN AIR: - Belgian Lace and Contemporary Interpretations - Through July 19 at the National Museum of Women in the Arts, 1250 New York Ave. NW. 202-783-5000. Suggested contribution $3, children $2. Open 10 to 5 Monday through Saturday, noon to 5 Sundays. Metro: Metro Center.