While some diners commemorate Chinese New Year in a favorite Chinese restaurant, complete with lion dances and fireworks, we were in a slightly different situation last weekend.
In the Rice King Restaurant, open just about a month, we found ourselves surrounded by more than the modest trappings of a small, cleanly appointed Oriental eatery. Because of an unforeseen shortage of help, some of the satisfied customers of different sizes and ages assisted the hard working kitchen crew and a solo, frazzled waitress make sure that customers got their water poured and tables cleared. It was a genuine gesture of affection for both the fledgling operation and the heroic waitress.A few customers were perturbed, but most patiently waited for their food. Happily for those of us that persevered, the dishes we sampled were nicely presented and skillfully prepared.
One unintended benefit was the lapse between courses. We found we had more time in between each to savor the complex mingling of tastes and textures that are the hallmarks of Chinese cuisine, often blurred by the speed in which some orders are served.
And some of the Rice King's dishes are definitely worth savoring. A unique shrimp appetizer, consisting of diced shrimp mixed with water chestnuts and a hint of ginger, wrapped in seaweed, and quickly deep fried, was a wonderful way to start our dinner. Both the aromatic and spicy hot and sour soup as well as the seafood soup ($5.95 for four) had a rich broth and pleasant flavor.
A large portion of the special house barbecued pork ($4.75), characterized by a rich smoked and honey taste, was also very good. Other appetizers on the menu include egg rolls, fried wonton, curry shrimp puffs and fried jumbo shrimp.
Our favorite entree was the fire cracker chicken ($6.95), slices of tender breast meat sauteed in a red pepper sauce and served on a platter of crispy white rice noodles accentuated with bright kiwi slices and whole Szechuan peppers. The kung po twan ($7.95) was another lively dish: crisp diced vegetables and water chestnuts mixed with whole peanuts with juicy scallops and shrimp in a spicy sauce.
Two other dishes reflected the Cantonese as well as creative style of the kitchen. The walnut shrimp ($7.95) is a hefty portion of fried shrimp and honey-roasted walnuts covered with a rich orangy mayonnaiselike sauce. The apple chicken - pieces of chicken breast and apple slices, battered and fried together - is served with a sweet red sauce.
Other specialties on the menu include the triple crown ($4.75), shrimp, beef and chicken with Chinese greens cooked in garlic sauce; happy family ($8.95), shrimp, scallops, beef and chicken garnished with snow peas and other vegetables; sizzling seafood platter with fried shrimp ($9.95); Singapore style vermicelli noodles ($6.45) with peppers, onions and pork in curry sauce; sesame beef ($6.95); teriyaki chicken with pineapple sauce ($6.95); moo shu pork ($6.95); shrimp in spicy garlic sauce ($7.45); and several combination dinners and vegetarian dinners as well as traditional offerings such as egg foo yung, chow mein and fried rice.
An Oriental proverb exemplifies the importance of Chinese hospitality, especially during the three-week celebration of Chinese New Year: "No empty seats and no empty glasses." And with a little help from its friends, the Rice King Restaurant will be able to fulfill that promise.
Rating: * * * *
Rice King Restaurant, 75 E. Fort Union Blvd. (Union Point Center), Midvale. 568-9988. Open for lunch Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. until 3 p.m.; dinner Monday through Thursday, 4:30 until 10 p.m.; until 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday and holidays. Accepts check with guarantee card and major credit card. Take out and delivery available.
- CONGRATULATIONS to Red Lion executive chef Franz Kubak, who was named this past month "Chef of the Year" by the Beehive's Chef Association. Kubak is active in the chefs' association serving on the board of directors and supporting the growing apprenticeship program. He has hosted two Escoffier Dinners in his three years as Red Lion executive chef and has distinguished himself with other community projects. Kubak represents the best of the growing number of distinguished chefs who serve in Utah's restaurants.