As a child of the farm, I understood family meals were predicted by the season: early summer meant fresh green peas and new potatoes from the garden, midsummer brought dewberry dumplings, a result of Grandpa Oscar's careful harvest of the prickly, unyielding bushes, while September supplied fresh peach everything. We had the usual farm abundance of milk, eggs, beef, pork, chicken and even lamb.
Winter emptied the fruit room of summer's canning projects: jars of jams, fruits, juices, pickles and sauces.With such readily available abundance, my food fantasies still wandered to the colorful photographs that divided the chapters of Mom's red and white gingham "Better Homes and Gardens" cookbook. I lingered longingly on the cake color plate and wondered why our farm-grown bounty failed to include a glamourous Lincoln Log or a ruffled Dolly Madison cake.
We ate "Practical Cookery's" ordinary applesauce cake and complained about the raisins.
Mother took our complaints in stride and occasionally ventured from her provident routines to indulge us in a specialty from the red-checked recipe collection.
I suspect our favorite indulgence was Chocolate Chews (later renamed Chocolate Crinkles), a page clipped from a 1954 BH&G magazine and added to Mom's 1947 edition of the cookbook. But we also loved peanut butter cookies, Snickerdoodles and jelly rolls. Muffins and waffles were other gingham-printed stand-bys.
When I married, I received my own copy, a 1966 edition of the standard kitchen reference; my sister marked her wedding day with a 1968 volume.
Through years of use and moving, my book lost its cover and numerous pages until I finally recopied my favorites for my recipe file box then retired the remains of the book.
Meredith Publishing, the parent company of "Better Homes and Gardens" started this all-American recipe cycle in 1930, when the original cookbook was offered as a $1.50 premium with a magazine subscription, according to Wayne Minsell, marketing directing at the company.
"More than 28 million copies of that book have been sold," Minsell continues, "each a little different than the last. We always hear from people upset that we left out their favorites recipes, but if you add new recipes, you have to leave some old ones out."
The newly released 10th edition (Bantam Books; 1075 pages; paperback; $7.95) leaves out the enticing, color photographs and my favorite recipe for Orange Bowknot Rolls, but it includes quick and easy ways to make those glamourous cakes from a mix.
Microwave chapters facilitate meal preparation for harried households and nutritional analysis for each recipe is included.
Marked differences in eating trends appear from one edition to another. The 1948 volume illustrates a holiday ham with almost as much fat as meat. Today's health-conscious consumers would balk at such a purchase. Current recipes have been trimmed of fat and sodium content while maintaining original flavors, but the trusty muffin recipe contains almost six times as much sugar as the 1948 version.
Ethnic-influenced recipes were unheard of in Mom's trusty collection, but even the 1960s editions gloss over international or regional tastes with Chopstix Tuna, Tamale Pie or Lasagna.
Not the 10th edition! Its pages burst with the pungent tastes of the Southwest or Cajun blackened dishes as well as Oriental and Euoropean-influenced recipes.
A glimpse at the generations of "Better Homes and Gardens" cookbooks chronicles our lives and times, then leaves us with stacks of food-related memories.
*****
(Recipes)
CHOCOLATE CRINKLES
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 squares (4 oz.) unsweetened chocolate, melted
1/2 cup cooking oil
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla
2 cups flour
Sifted powdered sugar
Combine beaten eggs, sugar, melted chocolate, oil, baking powder and vanilla. Gradually add flour to chocolate mixture, stirring until thoroughly combined. Cover and chill for 1-2 hours or until easy to handle.
Shape dough into 1-inch balls. Roll balls in powdered sugar to coat generously. Place 1 inch apart on a well-greased or parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake at 375 degrees for 8-10 minutes. Cool on wire rack. Makes about 4 dozen cookies
- Each serving contains 76 calories; 4 gm fat; 10 gm carbohydrate; 17 mg sodium; 17 mg cholesterol.
SOUR CREAM FRUIT DIP
1 carton (8 oz.) sour cream or plain yogurt
1/4 cup apricot or peach preserves
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
Apple, pear or peach slices
Combine ingredients; chill up to 24 hours. Serve with fruit chunks. Makes 1 cup or 8 servings.
- Each serving contains 86 calories; 6 gm fat; 8 gm carbohydrate; 16 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol.
MUFFINS
1 3/4 cups flour
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 egg, beaten
3/4 cup milk
1/4 cup cooking oil
Combine dry ingredients; make a well in the center. Combine egg, milk and oil; add all at once to flour mixture. Stir just until moistened; batter should be lumpy. Bake in lightly greased or paper-lined muffin tins at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. Makes 10-12 servings.
- Each serving contains 171 calories; 7 gm fat; 24 gm carbohydrate; 130 mg sodium; 29 mg cholesterol.
GINGER CHICKEN
3 tablespoons chicken stock
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons hot bean sauce or bean paste, optional
1 tablespoon water
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 whole chicken breasts, skinned and boned
2 tablespoons cooking oil
1 tablespoon ginger root, grated
1 cup carrots, bias-sliced
3 1/2 cups bok choy, sliced or chopped Chinese cabbage
2 cups fresh pea pods, tips and strings removed, or 1 package (6 oz.) frozen pea pods, thawed
3 green onions, bias-sliced in 1-inch pieces
2 cups hot rice
Stir together stock, soy sauce, bean sauce, water and cornstarch; set aside. Cut chicken into bite-size strips.
Add 1 tablespoon oil to preheated wok. (Add remaining oil as necessary during cooking.) Stir-fry ginger root in hot oil for 15 seconds; add carrots and stir-fry 2 minutes. Add bok choy or cabbage, pea pods, and onions; stir-fry 2-3 minutes or until crisp tender. Remove vegetables from wok or skillet.
Add chicken to wok; stir-fry for 2-3 minutes or until no longer pink. Push chicken from center of pan; stir soy sauce mixture; add to center of wok. Cook and stir till thickened and bubbly. Return vegetables to wok; stir to coat with sauce. Cook and stir about 1 minute or until heated through. Serve with hot rice. Makes 4 servings.
- Each serving contains 375 calories; 10 gm fat; 35 gm carbohydrate; 618 mg sodium; 72 mg cholesterol.
BEEF FAJITAS
1 pound boneless sirloin or flank beef steak
1/2 cup Italian salad dressing
1/2 cup bottled salsa
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
8 7-inch flour tortillas
1 medium onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings
1 medium green or sweet red or yellow pepper, cut into thin strips
1 medium tomato, chopped
Guacamole
Dairy sour cream
Shredded Cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese
Additional salsa
Partially freeze beef; thinly slice across the grain into bite-size strips. Place strips in zipper-closed plastic bag. Combine salad dressing, 1/2 cup salsa, lime juice and Worcestershire sauce; pour over meat, seal and marinate for 6-24 hours, stirring occasionally.
Wrap tortillas in foil. Heat in a 350-degree oven for 10 minutes to soften.
In large skillet over high heat, add oil. Cook and stir onions for 11/2 minutes. Add pepper strips, cook and stir about 11/2 minutes or until crisp-tender. Remove vegetables from skillet. Add half of the undrained beef strips to the hot skillet. Cook and stir for 2-3 minutes or until done. Remove beef and drain well. Repeat with remaining beef. Return all beef and vegetables to skillet. Add chopped tomatoes. Cook and stir for 1-2 minutes or until heated through.
To serve, immediately fill warmed tortillas with beef mixture. If desired, add guacamole, sour cream, cheese and additional salsa. Makes 4 servings.
- Each serving contains 425 calories; 33 gm fat; 21 gm carbohydrate; 185 mg sodium; 58 mg cholesterol.
MEATLESS TACOS
1/2 cup lentils
1/2 cup onions, chopped
2 cans (8 oz.) tomato sauce
1 package (11/4 oz.) taco seasoning mix
1 pound tofu, drained and chopped
16 taco shells, warmed
3 cups lettuce, shredded
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 cup Cheddar cheese, grated
Salsa
Rinse lentils; drain. In saucepan combine lentils, onions and 1 cup water. Bring to boil; reduce heat. Cover and simmer about 30 minutes or till tender and liquid is absorbed. Stir tomato sauce and seasoning into lentils. Simmer, uncovered for 5 minutes. Stir in tofu; heat through. Spoon into taco shells. Top with lettuce, tomato, cheese and salsa. Makes 8 servings.
- Each serving contains 281 calories; 12 gm fat; 32 gm carbohydrate; 886 mg sodium; 15 mg cholesterol.
CHOOSE-A-FRUIT FROZEN YOGURT
2 cups fresh or frozen unsweetened strawberries, red raspberries, blueberries or boysenberries; cut up, peeled peaches or nectarines; or pitted dark sweet cherries
2 cartons (8 oz.) plain yogurt
1/2-3/4 cup honey or sugar
In blender, process fruit until smooth; press through sieve to remove seeds if necessary. Stir in yogurt and honey. Pour into a 1- to 2-quart ice cream freeze. Freeze according to manufacturer's directions. Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes before serving. Makes 1 quart or 8 servings.
- Each serving contains 111 calories; 1 gm fat; 24 gm carbohydrates; 41 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol.
CHEESE STUFFED MANICOTTI
8 manicotti shells
1/4 cup green onion, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tablespoons margarine or butter
2 tablespoons flour
11/3 cups milk
1 cup Swiss cheese, grated
1/4 cup chicken stock
1 egg, beaten
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup mozzarella cheese, grated
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1/3 cup parsley, snipped
1/4 teaspoon lemon peel
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
Cook manicotti according to package directions; drain. For sauce, cook onion and garlic in margarine until tender; stir in flour. Add milk all at once. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Add cheese and stock; stir until cheese melts.
In a separate bowl, combine ricotta, egg, mozzarella, Parmesan, parsley, peel and nutmeg. Fill manicotti with ricotta mixture. Arrange in a 7-by-12-inch baking dish. Pour sauce over filled shells; cover and bake at 350 for 35-40 minutes. Makes 4 servings.
- Each serving contains 577 calories; 29 gm fat;39 gm carbohydrate; 1026 mg sodium; 142 mg cholesterol.
LINCOLN LOG
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
4 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup sugar
4 egg whites
1/2 cup sugar
Chocolate cream or pudding filling
Chocolate frosting
1/3 cup almonds, sliced and toasted
Combine flour and baking powder; set aside.
Beat egg yolks and vanilla for 5 minutes or until thick and lemon colored. Gradually add the 1/3 cup sugar, beating on high speed till sugar is dissolved.
In another bowl, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/2 cup sugar, beating until stiff peaks form; fold yolk mixture into whites. Sprinkle flour over egg mixture; fold in gently just until combined.
Spread batter evenly into a greased and wax or parchment paper lined, 10-by-15-by-1-inch pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 12-15 minutes. Immediately loosen edges of cake from pan and turn out onto a towel sprinkled with powdered sugar. Roll up towel and cake, jelly roll style, starting from one of the cake's short sides. Cool on rack. Unroll cake; spreadwith filling of choice. Roll up, glaze and sprinkle with almonds. Makes 10 servings.
- Each serving contains 262 calories; 6 gm fat; 33 gm carbohydrate; 56 mg