I first became acquainted with Bruno's Cafe almost 15 years ago when an Italian friend from Buffalo raved about their pizza. The little eatery, then on State Street, was more a bar than restaurant. Their thin-crust pizza with lots of cheese and sweet tomato sauce was very good and reminiscent of the "wet" pizzas prominent on the East Coast.
Over the years, and with countless restaurants and pizzas under my belt, I lost track of Bruno's. And our friends from Buffalo had long departed. But I rediscovered their new and smaller location in a modest block of storefronts just off 3900 South and 300 East earlier this year while avoiding a traffic jam on State Street.There is a definite family feeling in Bruno's. Regular customers sit in one corner of the interior and visit with the waitress/hostess/owner. In between orders and chatting, she finds time to tear the lettuce for the fresh dinner salads in the small kitchen and kibitz with the chef, her son. It is this kind of personal attention that makes both frequent visitors and strangers feel welcome.
The same kind of personal attention was apparent with the items we sampled from the modest bill of fare. The 15-inch pizza with three different cheeses, small pieces of ham and pepperoni came with a hand-tossed crust and lots of tomato sauce. The house dressing, a vinegar and oil with a creamy mayonaiselike topping (best appreciated by stirring it all together), had an appealing flavor. The homemade ravioli and minestrone soup were fresh.
Even the fried chicken, served with a choice of spaghetti or ravioli ($8.75 for the full dinner) was a generous three-piece portion served perfectly cooked and piping hot. It was worth the 25-minute wait as the menu had warned. The top sirloin steak ($11) was seasoned with garlic and prepared medium rare as requested.
While the lasagna was ordinary and the tomato sauce simple and unadorned, we found everything else appetizing and enjoyable.
Pizzas, in three different sizes, 11-, 13- and 15-inch, come with a variety of toppings including mushrooms, pepperoni, ham and anchovies; vegetable toppings are extra, as is the extra cheese. Prices range from $4.95 to $11.
Items are served either a la carte or as a dinner. The latter comes with soup, salad, roll and butter, dessert and small drink. Prices average around $9, and choices include lasagna, steak and spaghetti, spaghetti and meatballs, jumbo shrimp, and fried chicken with pasta choice. The a la carte entrees are about a dollar less. Children's orders and side orders are also available.
Bruno's Cafe offers diners hearty servings of friendly home-style service and nicely prepared homemade Italian specialties.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Bruno's Cafe, 320 E. 3900 South, 266-5431. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. until midnight. No credit cards; check accepted with guarantee card.