You've got a date in your kitchen.

So what do you do . . . entertain or bake?The latter, since Aunt Edna doesn't step on Ann Landers' toes! Anyway, this is dried fruit season, so we're looking at the natural goodness and versatility of this shrunken treasure by declaring, "Rise, raisins! No more apricot angst!"

Dried fruit doesn't necessarily have to be a second-class citizen relative to FRESH. Each has a prominent place in the food chain.

Although dried fruit is most popular during holiday baking blitzes, it's a year-round staple that is a great pantry standby. It stores well (in a cool, dry place) takes up little space - and with no juicy mess.

An excellent source of energy, dried fruit is great for backpackers, campers and even mall-walkers.

Dried fruit's biggest selling-point? It's sweet and delicious . . . a welcome addition to any food, or a tart snack by its wrinkled self.

Something magical seems to happen when fruit is baked in the sun (or dried in a dehydrator). The flavor is compacted into the shrinking original and intensified - only to be released upon consumption.

And then - wow!

The most commonly used dried fruits are dates, apples, peaches, prunes, plums, apricots, currants and raisins, although any variety of fruit can be dried.

Drying fruit is a fairly familiar task in this part of the country. I remember our fruit orchard. And cheesecloth-draped screens covered with parching apricots. The busy blender pulverizing plum concoctions to be poured over plastic-covered frames.

After the fruit tanned in our desert sun for a couple of days, we'd carefully peel it off and roll it up. It was meant to be stored for winter, but it never lasted that long.

For years, grandma's regular packages of fruit leather followed my family all over the country.

Home food dehydrators have made the outdoor screen-dried adventure rather archaic. Now, in a matter of hours, dried fruit and fruit "leather" can be turned out, with excellent results.

Many nutrition-conscious parents cut down on junk snacks and candy by making sweet fruit treats in a dehydrator.

Preserving fruit by drying is the oldest method of food preservation. Sun drying of fruits and vegetables was practiced before biblical times by Chinese, Hindus, Persians, Greeks and Egyptians.

RAISIN' RAISINS

Probably the most popular dried fruit is the raisin.

It's probably correct to assume that some ancient grape-picker accidentally left a bunch on the vine and ta da! - the raisin was born.

Historians say the Phoenicians and Armenians started a booming raisin trade around 1200-900 BC.

Soon after, their Greek and Roman trading partners began to savor raisins and the dried currant (a derivative of "Corinth").

Raisins became key to the cuisine of a couple of big boys - Augustus and Hannibal. In fact, raisins were so highly valued in Rome that two jars of raisins would buy a slave (wonder what a watermelon would purchase!).

It wasn't until the 11th century that raisins became part of the European diet. The knights returning from the Crusades brought the dried fruit back, and soon Northern Europe was receiving raisin shipments from the Mediterranean.

Eventually, the European nations began colonizing the Americas, and grape-growing was undertaken. The San Joaquin Valley of California soon became the premier place for raisin production in this country.

Today, many raisin growers in California are of Armenian descent.

And did you know that the smiling, rosy-cheeked maiden in a red bonnet who appears on Sun Maid raisin boxes was a real person?

The model was a young Fresno native who was chosen for the portrait while marching in her city's 1915 Raisin Day Parade. Lorraine Collett Petersen went on to be the Sun Maid lady at the Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco (a little tidbit to toss out the next time you're nibbling on a hunk of fruitcake).

PLUM FULL O' PRUNES

Dried plums made from certain plum varieties that can be dried with the pit intact (and without fermenting) are called prunes. The fresh fruit is called a prune or a prune plum.

After harvesting, the prunes are taken directly to a commercial dehydrator, where they are inspected, graded by size and stored until ready for shipment. Just before shipping, they are washed and cooked slightly to make them tender, then drained, sorted again and packed.

Prunes may be eaten as a snack or stewed and eaten hot or cold for breakfast. They make an excellent addition to compotes. When chopped, they perk up fruit salads. In a rice pilaf, they add character and are a perfect complement to duck, chicken and pork dishes.

The nutritionists at "Eating Well" magazine have experimented with prune puree as a fat substitute in baked goods.

In their "Recipe Rescue Cookbook," they note that replacing about 75 percent of the fat with puree and leaving in 25 percent of the fat gives the best results.

"Match the fruit to the recipe," is their advice. "Prune puree will work well in spicy recipes, such as carrot cake, gingerbread or even plum pudding. One cup of prune puree contains 407 calories and 1 gram of fat; a cup of butter contains 1,600 calories and 182 grams of fat; and a cup of oil contains 1,944 calories and 218 grams of fat."

WANNA DATE?

The next time you shop for fruit, pick up some dates. These plump little fruits really satisfy the sweet tooth and pack a lot of nutrition: potassium, dietary fiber, iron, calcium and B vitamins. At 24 calories each, a few dates make a sweet no-fat, no sodium snack.

Dates have a long shelf life. They stay fresh for several months when refrigerated in a tightly closed container or securely covered in plastic wrap. In the freezer, dates will keep for at least a year. (If they lose a bit of their natural moisture during storage, plump them up by soaking the dates in a little warm water or fruit juice for a few minutes.)

So there you have it . . . cut and dried.

Enjoy the offerings from our ever-loyal recipe exchangers! And the next time you scoff at the sight of a shriveled-up dried fruit, remember. . .

You can't judge a prune by its cover.

*****

RECIPES

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SALAD

Submitted by Glenna M.

Peterson, Murray

Approximate cost: $5

Yield: 8 servings

Evaluation: So different you'll love it. Glenna says, "If you like, sprinkle some chopped nuts or grape-nuts on top. The appeal of this salad is its mixture of flavors, sweet and sharp, and its crisp and nutty texture. You many vary the ingredients as you choose, so long as you keep the crisp characters, which will be spoiled if you add wet ingredients like tomatoes, fresh pineapple and oranges. If you are making the salad in quantity for keeping in the refrigerator, do not include the almonds, dates, dried fruit or dressing which should be added just before eating. They would become soft and the salad would lose its special texture if stored too long."

1 carrot

1 apple

1 or 2 sticks celery

Several radishes

2 cups red cabbage, chopped

Handful of freshly chopped parsley

1/4 cup unblanched roasted almonds (or other nuts)

1/4 chopped raisins

1/4 cup chopped dates

1/8 cup dried pineapple (optional)

1/8 cup dried papaya (optional)

Dressing to taste (French, or oil, lemon juice, salt and honey to taste)

Using a coarse grater (a French mandolin works best), grate up the carrot, apple, celery, radishes and cabbage. Mix well. Add parsley, almonds, dates, raisins, etc. Serve with dressing of your choice.

- Each serving contains 132 calories, 9 g fat, 15 g carbs, 229 mg sodium 2 mg cholesterol.

BANANA APRICOT NUT BREAD

Submitted by Ramona Densley,

South Jordan

Approximate cost: $3

Yield: 12 servings

Evaluation: A moist nut bread sweetened by dried apricots. An interesting twist to regular banana bread. Quick and easy to mix up. Great for lunches or after-school snacks.

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon soda

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

1/2 cup chopped nuts

2 bananas, mashed

1/2 cup milk

1 egg

1/4 cup melted margarine

Stir together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, apricots and nuts until thoroughly blended. In separate bowl combine bananas, milk, egg and margarine. Stir into dry ingredients until blended. Pour batter into greased floured pans. Bake at 350 degrees for 11/4 hours or until bread begins to pull away from sides of pan. Cool in pans 10 minutes, then turn out on rack. Makes 2 loaves.

- Each serving contains 255 calories, 8 g fat, 43 g carb, 219 mg sodium, 19 mg cholesterol.

BOILED FRUIT CAKE

Submitted by Marcia Ellis,

Salt Lake City

Approximate cost:$6

Yield: 2 loaves

Evaluation: A delicious fruitcake. Moist and different than most. Marcia suggests the addition of candied red and green maraschino cherries for additional flavor and color.

2 cups sugar

1 cup butter or margarine

4 cups hot water

1 1/2 package raisins

1/2 package candied fruit mix

1 cup nuts

1 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon nutmeg

2 teaspoons cinnamon

2 teaspoons cocoa

2 eggs, beaten

4 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Boil everything except for the fruitcake mix, as the color will be boiled away. Boil for 20 minutes and cool. Stir in fruit. Add 2 beaten eggs. Sift together flour, baking soda and salt, and add to mixture. Grease and flour 2 loaf pans. Bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

- Each serving contains 408 calories, 17 g fat, 60 g carb, 288 mg sodium, 27 mg cholesterol.

PRUNE AND APRICOT COFFEE CAKE

Submitted by Fay Sargent,

Salt Lake City

Approximate cost:$7

Yield: 16 servings

Evaluation: This coffee cake is a welcome change from the usual cream cheese version. The prune/apricot mix is a natural for this good-tasting pastry. Would make a great holiday breakfast bread.

3/4 cup dried prunes

3/4 cup dried apricots

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup light brown sugar

1 tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon cinnamon

3/4 cup soft shortening

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 eggs

3/4 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 tablespoons butter, melted

1/3 cup chopped walnuts

Lightly grease and flour a 9-inch tube pan. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Let prunes and apricots stand in hot water, to cover, 5 minutes. Drain and chop finely; set aside. In a small bowl combine brown sugar with 1 tablespoon flour and the cinnamon; mix well. In large bowl of electric mixer, at medium speed, beat shortening with granulated sugar until light and fluffy.

Beat in eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. At low speed, beat in flour mixture (in 3 additions) alternately with milk and vanilla extract (in 2 additions). Beat just to combine. Gently fold in the fruit. Turn 1/3 of the batter into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Sprinkle with 1/3 of brown sugar mixture, then with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Repeat layering twice. Sprinkle top with chopped nuts. Bake 55 minutes, let cool in pan on wire rack about 25 minutes. Gently remove from pan. Serve warm.

- Each serving contains 306 calories, 16 g fat, 38 g carb, 161 mg sodium, 39 mg cholesterol.

CHRISTMAS COOKIES

Submitted by Tiffany Thomson,

Sandy

Approximate cost: $9

Yield: 4 dozen

Evaluation: For miniature fruitcakes without the hassle of a regular-size one, these are great! Perfect for holiday parties and gifts for the neighbors.

1 1/2 cups brown sugar

1 cup margarine

1 teaspoon soda, dissolved in 2 teaspoons hot water

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 eggs

2 pounds dates, cut

1 1/2 cups candied cherries, cut

3 slices candied pineapple, cut

1/2 pound walnuts, chopped

1/2 pound pecans, chopped

1 pound Brazil nuts, chopped

Cut dates, cherries and pineapple; add nuts. Take out 1/2 cup of the flour and mix with fruit and nuts. Let stand while you make the cookie dough. To make cookie dough cream margarine and sugar; add eggs; soda water and vanilla. Add fruit and nuts. Drop on cookie sheet and bake at 325 degrees for 15 minutes.

- Each cookie contains 274 calories, 13 g fat, 39 g carb, 124 mg sodium, 9 mg cholesterol.

REFRIGERATOR APPLE RAISIN BRAN MUFFINS

Submitted by Kathryn Young,

Salt Lake City

Approximate cost: $3.50

Yield: 1 dozen

Evaluation: Great for busy mornings. Make batter ahead and cook only as much as you need at a time. Keeps well, covered, in refrigerator for 7 days. Try substituting your favorite dried fruits in this one. It's a classic!

1 1/2 cups flour

1 cup bran cereal

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1 beaten egg

1 cup milk

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup snipped dried apple

1/4 cup raisins

Mix flour, cereal, baking powder, cinnamon, salt and nutmeg. In another bowl mix remaining ingredients except apple and raisins. Mix wet ingredients into dry just until moist (batter will be lumpy). Do not overmix. Plump up dried fruits by pouring boiling water over just to cover. Let sit 5 minutes. Drain well. Fold fruits into batter. Store in fridge, covered.

To microwave:

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Line 2 custard cups with paper cupcake liners; 2 slightly rounded tablespoons per cup. Cook, uncovered at 100% power. One muffin: 30-60 seconds. Two muffins: 60-90 seconds.

To bake:

Line muffin cups with paper liners. Fill cups 2/3 full. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes.

- Each serving contains 171 calories, 6 g fat, 31 g carbs, 159 mg sodium, 19 mg cholesterol.

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