Little surprises me these days when it comes to the commercialization of nostalgia. While I certainly don't want to be too cynical about the exploitation of my baby boom generation, I sensed a dose upon viewing the film "Forrest Gump." Perhaps the only incidents in my past that were left out were frequent trips to hamburger places that we used to call "porcelain kitchens" to feast on "belly bombers."
No telling what the innocent Forrest would have opined after consuming a burger piled high with raw onions and downing a cherry coke. Being the humanist that he is, I suspect he would comment upon the ironic similarity between the outfits of the kitchen crew, which were identical to the gas station attendants of full service stations that died out about the same time these chrome lined diners met their demise.An international chain called Johnny Rockets has resurrected these diners with considerable glitz and glamour. And based on our recent visit to the Trolley Square location, which opened about two months ago, their marketing gurus have accurately zeroed in on their target. Middle-age parents, with progeny in tow, swayed to the top hits of the '50s and '60s. Their kids feasted on hamburgers and malts, waiting to be topped off from the metal containers still frosty with the last dollops of hand packed ice cream that has been blended right at the counter.
While some of the hokeyness was a bit over the top, such as the choreographed line dance by the kitchen crew as the Drifters belted out, "Under the Boardwalk," complete with flashing lights, the rest of the experience was quite enjoyable. While I did send my 11-year-old under the vinyl booth as I crooned along with the "Duke of Earl," he gobbled up his burger ("The Original' $3.95), made from fresh ground meat and cooked upon the griddle. Topped with the works, from dill pickle to chopped onion, it was quite good, even a piece or two of gristle adding to my recollections of similar burgers of my Midwestern youth 30 years ago. The white bread bun barely held up under the size.
The only other burger choices on the focused menu include a cheeseburger with "red, red sauce," and a double patty version called the "plus." Grilled onions, egg, cheese, chili and bacon can also be added. In addition to the burgers, other sandwiches include tuna and egg salad, peanut butter and jelly, BLT, grilled cheese and grilled chicken breast ($3.95). The latter was marinated with a soy sauce blend that was slightly on the sour side.
We also tried an order of rather ordinary fries ($1.45) and chili fries ($2.75), smothered in chili and topped with grated cheddar cheese and sliced onion. Our friendly waiter poured our ketchup and fry sauce for us, part of the personal attention lacking in earlier and less showy establishments. The dessert choice was a crusty and not too sweet apple pie, $1.65 per slice.
In addition to the burgers, as well as the hit-packed juke box, a nickle a tune, we also savored the creamy malts. At $2.75 they are somewhat labor intensive, but the flavors, like the rest of the menu are limited - chocolate, vanilla and strawberry. Shakes, floats and flavored cokes, served in paper cups perched in metal containers, round out the specialty fountain items.
For a bit of nostalgia, a dose of Hollywood hype, and a serving of the All-American cuisine that nurtured many of us through adolescence, Johnny Rockets will meet your needs.
Rating: * * *
Johnny Rockets, Trolley Square, 363-7587. Open from 11 a.m. until midnight, Sunday through Thursday; until 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Accepts major credit cards and check with guarantee card; reservations accepted for large parties.