When I was growing up, I was what my mother called a "finicky eater." Around the age of 5 or so, the kinds of vegetables I would eat could be counted on one hand: potatoes, corn, English peas, celery and onions (if they were finely chopped). I recall existing during that time on fried chicken, roast beef and tuna fish sandwiches. And, oh how I loved my mother's tuna fish.

A tuna sandwich is still my standby, although I'm not nearly so finicky about eating these days.It was with great pleasure that I recently leafed through "The Tuna Fish Gourmet," by Tracy Seaman (Villard Books, $12), amusingly illustrated by New York Times cartoonist Victoria Roberts.

Along with 75 recipes that use canned tuna, ranging from appetizers to hot entrees, Seaman notes tuna's finer qualities, such as: Water-packed tuna contains only 111 calories per 3-ounce serving and is high in protein and rich in the omega 3 oils that some doctors believe may help guard against cholesterol buildup.

The following, taken from "The Tuna Fish Gourmet," is for a sophisticated tuna salad, not a sandwich. For me, an old standby is an old standby, and, thanks to my mother, I've got longstanding favorites when it comes to tuna fish sandwiches.

*****

RECIPE

COOL RED CABBAGE WITH TUNA AND FENNEL

1 medium bulb fennel, quartered and shredded

1/4 small (1-pound) red cabbage, shredded or very thinly sliced

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 6 1/2-ounce can tuna in olive oil, drained and flaked

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1/2 cup pitted Calamata or other oil-cured black olives, coarsely chopped

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In a medium bowl, combine the fennel, cabbage and onion. Toss to mix.

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, oil, salt and pepper until blended. Pour over the cabbage mixture and toss to coat. (The recipe can be prepared to this point up to 3 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

Add the tuna, parsley and olives to the cabbage mixture. Toss to mix. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 first-course servings.

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