You could call it a highway to heaven.
If your vision of celestial paradise includes panoramas of high mountain peaks and pristine mountain valleys, the wilderness of northwest Wyoming is it and the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway will get you there.This road may not be paved with good intentions (in fact, approximately eight miles of it aren't paved at all), but it climbs through unforgettable scenery.
The road is narrow in spots, but it isn't all that straight. It twists and turns to the -foot summit of pass before dropping into Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone in a series of switchbacks.
(No, this isn't Yellowstone National Park, but in wilderness terms, the park is a neighbor one HUGE block to the west.)
If heaven were this beautiful, we'd all make the effort to get there.
Sunlight Basin is isolated in the heart of this mountain wilderness. A homesteader reportedly once said, "The only thing that gets into this valley most of the year is sunlight."
Nowadays a few lucky ranches are scattered about.
Think of it as Marlboro Country. Many of the photographs were taken at the 7D Ranch in Sunlight Basin.
No matter how you approach the basin, you must follow a scenic highway to get there.
I recently took a whirlwind drive through Wyoming, searching for scenic highways. As you might guess, I found some.
Here are details about the Chief Joseph, also known as Highway 296.
The highway
The entire Chief Joseph is an easy day's drive from Cody. Follow Highway 120 north and turn west at the well-marked junction.
The highway is wide and well-maintained with the exception of an eight-mile unpaved section near the summit on the Clarks Fork side. Road crews are widening and paving this part. The two-summer project is expected to be completed by the fall of 1995. The delay is inconvenient, but don't let it deter you from driving the road.
You pass the junction with Sunlight Road, an unpaved road into Sunlight Basin, and continue through Clarks Fork, a wide valley with Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River running through it. The river is the only designated wild and scenic river in Wyoming.
You drive by a few campgrounds and guest ranches before reaching the junction with Highway 212, also known as the Beartooth.
From there you can turn either west toward Cooke City and the northeast entrance to Yellowstone National Park, or east toward Red Lodge, Mont.
Campgrounds
There are three National Forest Service campgrounds in the area. They are first-come, first-served, cost $8 a night per site and accommodate tents and small RVs. A Forest Service spokeswoman suggests you start looking for a site early in the afternoon, especially on weekends or holidays.
Dead Indian, Hunter Peak and Lake Creek campgrounds have running water, vault toilets and garbage service. All three are located near Highway 296, and Dead Indian and Hunter Peak are near fishing streams.
Little Sunlight campground is in Sunlight Basin, reached only by a gravel road. Sites are unimproved, but there's no campground fee.
Guest ranches
7D Ranch is located in Sunlight Basin. Turn off Highway 296 onto Sunlight Road and drive eight miles along the unpaved road to the ranch. Summer rates for weeklong stays including meals and activities range from $1,003 to $1,150 per person. Discounts are available in September. The 7D doesn't take drop-in clients or book nightly stays. But you may be able to eat dinner there if you call a day ahead to make reservations. The number is 1-307-587-9885. The ranch also takes custom pack trips into the nearby wilderness, including hunting trips in the fall. (The North Absaroka Wilderness Area is virtually next door.) Homesteaded in the early 1900s, the property is now a working/-guest ranch. Rustic but comfortable cabins vary in size. Each has a private bathroom and a wood stove. Dine family-style in the lodge. The daily agenda includes horseback riding, fishing for trout or hiking into the Absarokas. Day trips to Cody and Yellowstone Park are available.
Hunter Peak Ranch, 1-307-587-3711, is on Highway 296 five miles from the 212 junction. It is open from May 1 thru Dec. 31. Cabins have their own kitchen, or you can eat at the ranch house. American plan rates are $155 per person per day and include all your meals, activities and accommodations. Three-day minimum. The ranch will accept overnighters ($67 for two people including breakfast) on the spur of the moment if it has room. Owned and managed by Louis and Shelley Cary, it was a cattle ranch belonging to Louis' grandfather. It was turned into a guest ranch in 1949. When is the best time of the year to visit? "September," says Shelley. "It's still warm and the nights are cool. The trees start turning by the middle of the month."
Squaw Creek Ranch and Outfitters is a small guest ranch that also offers pack trips into Yellowstone's backcountry and the North Absaroka Wilderness Area. Pack trips specialize in photography, fishing, sightseeing and hunting (in the fall). One, two and four-bedroom cabins with private baths. Three-night minimum stay during summer at $160 per person per day includes meals and activities. Children 10 and under are $136 per night. Six-night stay is $950 per person ($807.50 for children) including a van trip to Yellowstone and a day trip to Cody.
With the exception of the two-bedroom cabin, which is historic, the ranch's buildings are only a few years old.
The ranch is located one mile off the highway. The turnoff is near where the highway crosses Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River.
Hiking trails
Clarks Fork Trail takes off near Hunter Peak Ranch and follows the river. This is not a loop trail, so you have to retrace your steps back to the trailhead. Sounds easy, but it's actually rated "difficult."
Elk Creek Trail makes a loop from Dead Indian campground to the Sunlight Ranger Station in Sunlight Basin, following along Elk Creek.
A wilderness trail takes off near the end of Sunlight Road and crosses the mountains to Pahaska, near the east entrance to Yellowstone. Camp Monaco, so named because the Prince of Monaco used to camp here on hunting trips with Buffalo Bill, is located along this trail. This hike is no stroll. It's serious backpacking.
A Forest Service map of the north half of Shoshone National Forest shows all the area's hiking trails. It's available at Forest Service offices in Cody, the General Store in Cooke City, and the Top of the World Store on the Beartooth Highway. Or send a check for $3 made payable to the U.S. Forest Service to Clarks Fork Ranger District, 1002 Road 11, Powell, WY 82435.
Fishing
Clarks Fork is considered good trout fishing. Fishing licenses are available at sporting goods stores in Cody, the General Store in Cooke City and Top of the World Store on the Beartooth Highway.