Not all roads lead to the Big Horn Mountains in north/central Wyoming, but there are three that do: U.S. Highway 14A, U.S. Highway 14 and U.S. Highway 16.
All three are scenic byways.The Big Horns should interest Utahns for several reasons.
- They are within a two- or- three-day drive of the Wasatch Front and can be coupled with other scenic routes in the area.
- They are less crowded than Wyoming's better-known mountain ranges. (Tourists trample the Tetons to death, but you'll find relative peace and quiet in the Big Horns.)
- They are beautiful.
The Big Horns are a high and wide range that runs north and south. They're about 30 miles wide and 90 miles long.
On top there are rolling meadows and pine forests. In early summer, lupine and balsa root color meadows purple and yellow. In September, the golden hues of autumn appear.
The range lacks the rugged appeal of the Tetons, the Sawtooths or the Wind Rivers. But what it doesn't have in rocky peaks and craggy cliffs, it makes up for in broad vistas. From viewpoints on Highway 14A looking west, for example, you can gaze across the Big Horn Basin all the way to Yellowstone.
On a clear day you can see almost forever.
By most people's standards, north/central Wyoming is the middle of nowhere. Unless you're going from Cody to Sheridan, or vice versa, you won't stumble on the Big Horns unless you make a point of it.
My father and I drove 14A this summer on the way from Red Lodge, Mont., to Sheridan, Wyo., after traversing the Chief Joseph and Beartooth scenic highways.
It is a well-maintained highway from which a number of gravel Forest Service roads take off leading deeper into the wilderness.
Highway 14A meets up with Highway 14 at Burgess Junction where you can continue east to Sheridan or turn west and follow 14 back to Greybull.
Highway 16 crosses the range near its southern end, connecting the towns of Buffalo and Worland.
The difference between the Big Horn's three scenic byways is grade. Highway 16 ascends the most gradually. Highway 14A on the north is the steepest. Highway 14 in the middle is in-between.
Highway 14A across the mountains is closed in winter.
Elevations are high. Granite Pass on Highway 14 is over 9,000 feet. Powder River Pass on Highway 16 is over 9,500 feet. Prepare for cool temperatures, especially this time of year. "Dress for changeable weather," suggests Dennis Eckardt, district ranger for Medicine Wheel Ranger District of Bighorn National Forest. "Carry water, food and coats in your car."
Because of high fire danger this summer, campfires are allowed only in developed campgrounds.
Here's a rundown of what the Big Horns offer.
Highway 14A
Approaching from Lovell on the west, the grade is between 8 and 10 percent. But don't let that scare you. "It's an easily traveled road as long as people drive it sensibly and they shift down going up and coming down the hill," says Eckardt. "Semitrucks come off it with no problem at all."
If it's a hot day, turn off your air conditioner so your car won't overheat, he suggests.
Once you're on top, it's a relatively flat drive across a high plateau.
The road closes for winter generally in November and reopens in May.
The distance from Lovell to Burgess Junction is about 55 miles.
Highlights include Big Horn Canyon National Recreation Area near Lovell. The lake, which backs up from Yellowtail Dam in Montana, offers recreational boating and fishing.
Pryor Mountain wild horse herd is also near Lovell.
Medicine Wheel National Historic Landmark is a remnant of an ancient culture and is a sacred spot for American Indians. Located off 14A high in the range, it is made of stones placed in a circle with 28 spokes emanating from the center. Indians still hold ceremonies at the wheel. Take Forest Development Road 12 to the parking lot. The wheel is a 11/2-mile walk from there.
Campgrounds: Five Springs is a BLM campground at the western base of the Big Horn Mountains. There are two Forest Service campgrounds on Highway 14A: Bald Mountain and Porcupine. Both have running water and vault toilets and are handicapped accessible. The price is $8 a night per site. Closing dates depend on the weather but usually range from Oct. 15 to Nov. 15.
Hiking: Bucking Mule Falls is one of the highest falls in the state. To reach the trailhead, take Forest Development Road 14 (gravel) approximately 10 miles. The roundtrip hike is about three miles. The trailhead to Porcupine Falls is also on FDR 14. That trail is short but steep.
Driving: Scenic drives off 14A include FDR 15, a.k.a. Dayton Gulch Road. This well-maintained gravel road suitable for passenger cars is an alternate route to Burgess Junction. FDR 10, a.k.a. Hunter Mountain Road, is also gravel. It is not for the family sedan unless weather conditions are very dry. "There are clays in that road, and if it rains or snows you could get stuck," says Eckardt. The road is about 17 miles and it ties into Highway 14 near Granite Pass.
Highway 14
The distance from Burgess Junction to Greybull is about 55 miles. The steepest parts of the highway have a 6 percent grade.
Highlights include Shell Canyon where all of the state's geologic formations are visible. "This area has been under the ocean seven times and then uplifted," says Bob Larson, interpretive specialist with the Paintrock Ranger District. "All of the geological formations in Wyoming are exposed there."
Shell Canyon is the only place in the range where you can see bighorn sheep. "In the last four years we've reintroduced them there," he says.
The mountains were named for the abundance of bighorn sheep once found there.
Shell Falls is one of the highest waterfalls in Wyoming outside Yellowstone. The Falls are near the highway and have an interpretive center.
Campgrounds: Cabin Creek, Shell Creek and Ranger Creek campgrounds are located between Granite Pass and Shell Falls. They have running water and vault toilets; $7 night per site. There are also campgrounds at Paintrock Lakes where fishing is excellent. Take FDR 17, a.k.a. Paintrock Road and the Shell Creek Ranger Station Road, for 20 miles.
Hiking: The trailhead for Adelaide Trail is near Ranger Creek campground. The trail takes you into Cloud Peak Wilderness Area. Cloud Peak, 13,175 feet, is the highest point in the Big Horns.
Highway 16
The drive from Buffalo to Worland across the southern end of the Big Horns is about 90 miles. Highlights include 9,677-foot Powder River Pass and scenic Ten Sleep Canyon. A number of trails into Cloud Peak Wilderness leave from trailheads near the road. The highway is better suited to large vehicles than 14 or 14A. "It's less winding, and it doesn't have the steep grades and turns," says Michael J. Strohbusch, recreation forester with the Buffalo Ranger District.
Campgrounds: Signs along the road will alert you to the many campgrounds in the area. They include West Ten Sleep and Meadowlark Lake.
Scenic drives: A number of Forest Development Roads take off from Highway 16. They include Sheep Mountain Road to Sheep Mountain lookout tower. You're welcome to climb the tower and take in the view. The gravel road is rough and not for low-clearance vehicles or trailers.
Crazy Woman Canyon Road, FDR 33, descends into Crazy Woman Canyon where it meets up with old Highway 196 that takes you back into Buffalo. Scenic but not for low-clearance vehicles or trailers.
Pole Creek Road, FDR 31, is an 11-mile alternate route that takes off from and connects back into Highway 16. Good for viewing wildlife. It's an improved gravel road suitable for passenger vehicles.
Hiking: Trailheads into Cloud Peak Wilderness include Hunter Corrals, on FDR 19; and Circle Park on FDR 20. The hiking area has attracted more and more people after it was designed wilderness in 1984. "It's the only wilderness in the Big Horns," says Strohbusch. "Before that it was a primitive area. Once you put the big `w' on it, it attracts more people.
"If you're looking for solitude, there are other areas we can direct you to that are just as pretty. That relieves some of the pressure on it (the wilderness area)."
Rustic accommodations: The Forest Service rents out a turn-of-the-century ranger station on Muddy Creek Road, FDR 473. Accoutrements include gas appliances, a wood burning stove and a vault toilet. There is no running water. The price is $40 per night up to five people. Scenery is beautiful and it's off the highway. To make reservations call the Buffalo Ranger District at 1-307-684-7981.
*****
Additional Information
For Information
Forest Service maps of Bighorn National Forest are available for $3 and travel maps are available for $1 from:
Medicine Wheel Ranger District, P.O. Box 367, Lovell, WY 82431, 1-307-548-6541.
Buffalo Ranger District, 300 Spruce St., Buffalo, WY 82834, 1-307-684-7981.