USE THREADS INSTEAD OF POWDER WHEN ADDING SAFFRON

Words of wisdom from vegetarian cookbook writer Martha Rose Shulman, whose latest work is "Provencal Light" (Bantam Books, $29.95 hardcover):

"Saffron threads are preferable to powdered saffron, because the threads are generally more fragrant and the product more reliable. Powdered saffron often turns out to be an adulterated powder with lots of color but very little real aroma."But every once in a while a recipe . . . will call for powdered because it dissolves so easily in liquid. The powder is usually sold in tiny little canisters, each one containing about 1/8 teaspoon, which constitutes a dose - the pinch you would add to a soup or sauce at the last minute."