Move over Mandarin, you finally have a rival for the best Chinese food on the Wasatch Front. Dynasty, a new restaurant in the Country Square Shopping Center in Sandy, of all places, is on the rise and ready to reign.
Henry Chen and his father have come to Utah from China via Missouri, and brought Chinese chefs from Boston and San Francisco with them. They've redone a former free-standing flower shop, using soothing greens and black lacquer, and have even set up a piano bar in back. Extremely conscientious of detail, they'll go to great lengths to please the patron. If it's not on the menu, they'll be happy to whip it up for you in the kitchen.It is, however, an extensive menu - not 12 pages, as in some restaurants on the Pacific Rim, but reminiscent of them all the same. A bit of guidance can be helpful.
Rather than dive right into the main course, you would be remiss if you didn't sample a few of the appetizers. Skip the traditional egg roll and ribs, they're marginal at best and can be found in most Asian restaurants in the valley. Go straight for the Crab Rangoon, $3.99 for six, and the frog legs, $6.95 for four, which are little bites of heaven. The Rangoon, crab in a creamy sauce enveloped in delicately fried flour wrappers, is exquisite, as are the frog legs, rare in these parts, lightly breaded then fried to a tender, succulent consistency without a hint of rub-ber-i-ness.
Be forewarned, however, that in a curious concession to American tastes, you'll first be served a green salad with Dynasty's own house dressing, of which the chefs are very proud. It's described as a creamy Caesar, but I found it more reminiscent of an Oriental ranch. People seem to like it. While we were there, several parties asked to buy some in takeout containers, and, of course, they were readily accommodated.
It's not a bad idea to try the soups as well, which are very subtle and not overly saline. The creamy corn with crab meat, $3.50, is sweet and smooth. The hot and sour, $2.50, is not quite as hot and sour as I love but satisfyingly piquant, and they will spice it up if you request. The soups are served with a plate of Chinese "crackers" or flat fried noodles that add a delightfully crunchy texture to the soup or salad.
And finally, the main courses. They are not expensive, and portions are not huge, but they are oh so rich and delicious. We tried the Dynasty Beef, which, at $16.99, might be a little intimidating, but well worth the investment. It's Dynasty's award-winning version of orange beef, and how they prepare those lovely pieces of sirloin so tender is a well-guarded secret. It carries a chili by its name on the menu, which indicates that it is "hot and spicy," but these qualities do not overpower gentle insinuations of ginger and fruit.
We also tried and enjoyed the Dragon and Phoenix, for $10.95. The `Dragon' is shrimp in a red tomato sauce with onions, and it's nestled alongside the `Phoenix,' which is chicken with light vegetables in a striking creamy almond sauce. They're best eaten separately, in small bites, in order to savor the very discreet sauces.
The Neptune in Bird's Nest, $16.99, is a showpiece dish that tastes as good as it looks. Served in a basket of fried potatoes and noodles, it contains fresh seafood - large pieces of crab meat, silver-dollar-sized scallops, and shrimp, mixed with crisp vegetables. This is a seriously large portion, and should be ordered only by the fa-mished.
Dynasty is one of the few Chinese restaurants around with a full Utah State liquor license and it offers a lengthy wine list, but you might be inclined to try one of their non-alcoholic house drinks, especially the coconut punch, which is a rich, creamy version of a virgin pina colada, whipped together with fresh, rather than frozen ingredients, for $2.25. "Dynasty's Own `Raspberry Kiss' " for $2.15 is also refreshing.
And if, by some remote chance, you are still hungry after all this, you can try the lightly fried bananas or apples with honey, for $3.50. There is li chi fruit and sa chi ma, or sweet rice cake, as well.
The Salt Lake area has been in desperate need of a Chinese restaurant of this caliber for quite some time. If successful, Dynasty plans on extending to downtown Salt Lake, but in the meantime, Sandy is a worthwhile destination.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Dynasty, 1275 E. 8600 South, Sandy, 567-0618. Open Monday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Thursday through Saturday 11 a.m. through 12 midnight, and Sunday from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. Checks and guarantee cards are accepted, and reservations will soon be needed.