The first screwdrivers appeared shortly before the end of the 17th century. They were mostly used by gunsmiths. The 18th century saw the introduction of the wood screw, and the screwdriver became an essential tool of the carpenter and cabinetmaker. In that era the screwdriver was called a turnscrew or screw puller.

In the Industrial Revolution manufacturers found new ways to mass produce the wood screw, and tradesmen increasingly used them to assemble their wares. Screwdrivers were marketed specifically for individual trades. Old tool catalogs list sportsman's screwdrivers, military screwdrivers, billiard screwdrivers, gentleman's screwdrivers and even undertaker's screwdrivers.Today screwdrivers are manufactured in many lengths, tips and handle styles. But the homeowner will most likely find that four or five will be adequate for general work. When buying screwdrivers avoid the special offers that offer one for 99 cents or three for $2. Cheap screwdrivers often chip or break and cannot stand up even to ordinary jobs.

First look at the tip. Even though there are at least 10 types of tips - like Tork, Robertson, Reed & Prince and Pozidriv - the two main ones are the common tip and the Phillips.

The common tip is a flat blade that fits a screw with a straight slot across the head. The Phillips has a beveled cross that fits into a screw head with a crossed slot.

A common tip should have straight sides and a flat tip. Avoid those with rough spots or rounded corners. Some have grooves across the tip. Manufacturers say that design keeps the tool from slipping out of slots. But tests show that the grooves do not affect performance. The toolbox should have 1/8-inch, 3/16th-inch and 5/16th-inch tips.

When buying a Phillips screwdriver avoid tips that end in a narrow, sharp point. Those screwdrivers will slip out of the screw head and damage the work. Also try to include a No. 1 and a No. 3 Phillips screwdriver in the toolbox.

Next, look at the handles. The larger the handle the more torque that can be applied. But the handle should still fit comfortably in the hand. Handles are manufactured in wood and plastic, and some have grooves or flutes designed to improve grips. Many carpenters, however, find that a bulbous handle, found on traditional cabinetmakers' tools, has more surface area and affords greater contact between hand and tool. Some screwdrivers, often called electrician's screwdrivers, are available with a slip-on rubber grip. Those grips are designed to increase the size of the handle, but they do not protect the user from electrical current.

It is usually best to buy screwdrivers with six-inch blades. For work in confined areas a tool with a short blade, about 1 inch, called a "stubby," can help. For electrical or appliance repairs screwdrivers with longer shafts - 8 inches or more - can reach into tight corners.

Screwdrivers are the most misused of all hand tools. Amateurs and professionals alike use them as pry bars, chisels, punches and scrapers. Screwdriver should be used just to drive and remove screws. Using it for any other purpose will most likely damage the blade.

When driving screws, choose a screwdriver that fits properly in the screw head. A tip that is too small will not grip the screw properly. One too large will damage the surrounding work. The tip should match the width of the slot. If possible, secure the work with clamps or in a vise.

Grasp the screwdriver so that the thumb side of the hand faces the blade. The other hand positions the screw in the pilot hole until the screw bites into the work. This hand now shifts to the screwdriver shaft to hold it steady as pressure increases.

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When the blade of a common-tip screwdriver becomes worn, with rounded or broken edges, it may be possible to restore. Some books refer to that as sharpening, but that is technically incorrect because the screwdriver is not a cutting tool. Dressing the blade is more accurate.

To dress the tip, clamp the screwdriver in a vise with the shaft in a vertical position. Using a flat mill file, file across the tip at right angles to the shaft. Be careful not to round the ends. You can also dress with an electric bench grinder. The problem with that is that the fast-moving abrasive wheel produces much heat that can draw the temper, or soften the blade, from the tip. That can be prevented by dipping the screwdriver in cold water frequently.

Two other screwdrivers can prove useful, the ratchet and the offset. The ratchet has a mechanism in the handle that allows the user to drive a screw without changing the grip. The ratchet screwdriver usually has interchangeable common and Phillips tips.

The offset screwdriver is useful in tight corners. It is usually a bent steel bar with the tips at both ends. One tip is in line with the handle. The other is at right angles to it. When the swinging space for the tool is limited the ends can be alternated to work the screw in or out. Offset screwdrivers are also available with ratchet drives.

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