The first thing I noticed when I walked into Christopher's was that all the other diners were bearing gifts. Brightly wrapped boxes and bags full of presents, it seems Bountiful diners have already made this new eatery their favorite place to gather. Large tables accommodated showers, birthdays, anniversaries and Christmas celebrations. My question was the celebration motivation: Was it a lack of favorable options in Bountiful or truly good food?
My verdict? A little of both, which is not to discredit the restaurant. Christopher's substantially improves the Bountiful dining scene. It's a much needed addition to the area.I was a little worried at first, as my meal got off to a shaky start. The server was effusive over their house clam chowder. How could I help but order? It was, well, white. Yes, it was mild, smooth and creamy, and there were traces of clams and potatoes floating about, but any distinct flavor was missing. A bowl comes with the dinner, or you can order it separately, for $2.50.
I also tried the stuffed mushroom appetizer, again highly recommended by the server, and made with crab and sausage, smothered in a hollandaise, then topped with grated cheese. While the mushrooms themselves were plump and firm, the stuffing was, well, salty. Any subtle sweetness from the crab was overwhelmed by the salinity of the other ingredients. It was a generous portion for $5.99, perhaps better shared by six people than two.
Especially if you want to save room for the massive main dishes, which are, well, excellent. I was delighted to find veal in Bountiful and ordered it immediately. At Christopher's, it's served Oscar-style, in the form of 12-ounce veal chops smothered with crab meat and hollandaise sauce, for $19.99. The veal is the white, milk-fed variety, and somewhat fat-riddled, but very tasty. You expect this. The chop, after all, is not the leanest of cuts. The crab is fresh and plentiful, the sauce smooth and subtle. It's a very rich main course, not for the weak of heart.
Those who are more health conscious would do well to try the fresh king salmon, for $5.99. We attempted to order the halibut, but the server steered us away. In this instance his guidance was good. The salmon was a smart choice. They don't overpower it with a heavy soy sauce marinade but lightly grill it, letting the fish's natural taste resonate in your mouth. A smart choice indeed.
I'd have to say one of the most pleasant aspects of Christopher's meal is the side dish. Each main course comes with several, all cunningly prepared, especially the black bean relish, made with onions, tomatoes, black beans and pineapple. It's an excellent complement to almost any main dish. The fresh, sauteed green beans, the vegetable du jour, were also crisp and flavorful. In addition to those, we were served shoe-string fried yams, a fun, original touch.
Diners also have their choice of seasoned new potatoes, wild rice or french fries. I'd strongly recommend the new potatoes, with their assertive seasoning and crispy skins. The wild rice is not memorable.
Ah, and for dessert, go straight for the bread pudding, for $2.50. Not that the triple decadence chocolate cake, the mudslide pie or the caramel chocolate pecan torte look bad, but the bread pudding is certainly something to rave about. The night we were there, they'd added nuts and blackberries to the pudding, and it was superb. The sauce was a bit grainy, but atop such a masterpiece, we were able to overlook that and take a good bit home with us. The serving was huge.
The atmosphere in Christopher's is comfortable rather than pretentious. A white tile floor and an abundance of window space give the building a light, airy feeling, even on a cold winter's evening. The servers are prompt, friendly and extremely conscientious. It's a relatively new establishment and is therefore very interested in cultivating return business. This shouldn't be difficult in Bountiful. North of Salt Lake City and south of Ogden, it's the only restaurant in its class.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Christopher's Restaurant, 370 W. 500 South, Bountiful, 299-9544. Open for lunch, 11 a.m. until 2:30 p.m., and for dinner 4:30-10 p.m., until 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Early evening specials run from 4:30-6:30 p.m. Reservations are suggested on weekends and for large parties.