In the old days, Laie was a puuhonua - a place of refuge. People who were accused of sins against their fellow men could earn forgiveness if they could make it to Laie and do penance with the priests before they were captured by their pursuers. In times of war, women and children also sought shelter there.
Located on the North Shore of what is now called Oahu, Laie was considered sacred ground. So it is fitting that this site was chosen as a place where the culture of all Polynesia could be revered, respected and preserved.The Polynesian Cultural Center was built there by the LDS Church in 1963, adjacent to both the Hawaiian Temple and what was then the Church College of Hawaii, as a place to allow students from all the islands to work their way through school while also sharing their island heritage.
Today, more than 30 years later, the center ranks as the No. 1 paid tourist attraction in Hawaii. And its popularity is on the upswing; attendance has increased by 20 percent in the past three years to where more than a million people now visit the center each year, says Les Moore, president of the center.
"When President David O. McKay dedicated land for the Church College of Hawaii, he said that millions of visitors would come to the site," explains Moore. "At that time only 110,000 people were visiting Waikiki each year." Tourist officials and others were doubtful the center would work. Too far from Honolulu, they said. Not enough action, they said. And the center did have its ups and downs in those early years. But all told, since the Polynesian Cultural Center opened, more than 23 million people have come through the gates.
However, its original purpose holds true. Today a labor force of 11,000 keeps the center going, and two-thirds of them are students at the now BYU-Hawaii campus. "We have a wonderful relationship with the school," says Moore. The students participate in daily demonstrations, activities and entertainment that highlight the culture of their native lands.
The success of the center is truly a team effort, says Moore. He gives credit to Elder Dallin Oaks, chairman, and Elder Joseph B. Wirthlin, vice chairman, of the center's board of directors, as well as to the dedicated staff and students that keep the center vibrant and exciting. (As an interesting side note, Moore pointed out that President Howard W. Hunter was the first General Authority to direct the affairs of the PCC as president and chairman of the board.)
The cultural center covers 42 acres in Laie and is dedicated to showcasing Polynesian culture. In addition to areas highlighting each island or nation, the center offers a daily "Pageant of the Long Canoes," an IMAX theater showing "Polynesian Odyssey," canoe tours of the area, tram tours to BYU-Hawaii and the Hawaiian Temple, an evening luau, shops and marketplaces with authentic jewelry and other items, and the evening extravaganza "This Is Polynesia" that takes visitors on an island tour through music and dance.
"We hope that people who visit the center come away with three things," says Moore. First and foremost is a deeper understanding of the people of Polynesia - the arts, crafts and culture. "To duplicate the experience of the center, people would have to fly thousands of miles around the Pacific. Here, they can do it all in one day. We have a living museum that captures the spirit and customs of these islands."
Second, he says, he hopes that people realize that while they are being entertained they are contributing to the education of fine young people. "All proceeds from the center stay in Hawaii." Money goes toward student wages, health care, rent, tuition, scholarships and more. Students sponsored by the program are asked to work 20 hours a week at the center. And they pay back a portion of their expenses. "It's a marvelous program," says Moore. "They get an education, but they also develop a feeling of self-worth and self-esteem through sharing aspects of their culture."
The third thing he hopes visitors take away with them is a feeling for the spirit of love and service radiated by students at the center. "We get letters from leaders all over the world commenting on the uplifting spirit we have here. We see the world so divided on cultural lines, but here we have all these nations working together in peace and harmony."
Seven island nations are represented at the center, each with a separate village area where demonstrations of arts and crafts take place, where buildings reflect architectural styles of the islands and where history and culture is shared.
The Polynesian Cultural Center represents an area that covers roughly 15 million square miles in the Pacific Ocean, a triangle stretching from Hawaii in the north to Easter Island in the southeast and New Zealand in the southwest.
Long before Columbus, even before the fall of Troy, these intrepid Polynesian people were charting the Pacific and sailing tremendous distances in their canoes - which were only 60-80 feet long and powered by sails of plaited leaves.
The islands of Polynesia have many similarities, but due to the vast distances they also developed some striking differences. Islands featured at the center include:
Hawaii: An island in perpetual motion. Perhaps the most familiar of the islands, Hawaii clashed early with European culture in the form of missionaries and businessmen, eventually being annexed by the United States. The most famous aspect of Hawaiian culture is probably the hula dance, known for its graceful movement. Drums and conch shells were important sources of music.
Hula lessons are given at the center, in the shade of a spreading hua tree. Also featured are demonstrations of Hawaiian throw-net fishing, poi pounding and tasting, and historical lectures.
Fiji: A necklace of island gems. Fiji is a nation comprising 322 islands spread like a horseshoe. The Fijians are the potterymakers of Polynesia; shards dating from 1500 B.C. have been uncovered there. Fiji is also known for its sandalwood trees, cowrie shells and brightly patterned clothes.
Fashion shows are held at the center daily, along with lei-making lessons and demonstrations of copra. Fijian dance lessons are taught to haunting bamboo music.
Samoa: The cradle of Polynesian culture. Historians believe that the earliest settlers arrived in Samoa and spread from there to other islands. The volcanic character of the land and the tropical climate contributed to the development of definitive Polynesian traditions.
Visitors to the PCC learn how Samoans climb coconut trees, how to husk and crack coconuts, and even the difference between coconut milk and juice. They can also weave a hat from coconut leaves and witness a demonstration of how to start a fire with coconut sticks.
Aotearoa (New Zealand): The land of the long white cloud. The Maori culture was centered around a tribal society where ceremony played a vital part. Nobody could enter a village without elaborate ritual. Although today Maoris make up only about 12 percent of the predominantly European population of New Zealand, they have retained much of their Polynesian heritage.
The Maori center is popular with visitors to the PCC because of the fiercely made up, tongue-wagging warriors found there. Visitors also have fun trying to learn the art of poi ball twirling.
The Marquesas: Veiled by time. Probably the least familiar of the islands, the Marquesas are today part of French Polynesia but remain rather isolated. It is believed that expeditions set forth from these islands to colonize Hawaii and Easter Island, but little is known about their earliest history.
Built in the manner of a Marquesan ceremonial compound, the building at the cultural center is made of coral, a building material used on the islands. Visitors have a chance to sample breadfruit, taro and boiled green bananas, all food staples in the Marquesas. Ancient legends are told, but there are no drums and no dancing, as this seems not to have been a part of early Marquesan life.
Tahiti: Beautiful islands of mystery. Tahiti, also a part of French Polynesia, has a pre-history that is just beginning to be studied. Vast centers of population have been uncovered in the forested mountains that were abandoned and left to the jungle centuries ago. The islands of Tahiti range from coral atolls to towering volcanic peaks. Tahiti's waterfalls, bright flowers and turquoise lagoons were immortalized by artist Paul Gauguin.
Drums and dance do play a big part in Tahitian culture; their version of the hula features frenetic hip movements that novices have a hard time - but lots of fun - trying to duplicate. Tahitian crafts include beautiful shell work. And a plantation in the Tahitian village grows bananas, papayas, sweet potatoes, pineapple and breadfruit.
Tonga: The last kingdom. Tonga is one of the few places in the world - and the only one is Polynesia - that was not colonized by Europeans. The royal family of Tonga has been ruling continuously for more than a thousand years, although today the country has a constitutional monarchy with a parliament.
Tapa cloth, made from the bark of the paper mulberry plant, is one of the distinctive crafts of Tonga. Visitors can see how this cloth is made. They are also challenged to try the game of lafo, similar to shuffleboard, and are taught to weave toys from coconut leaves. And they can beat on a Tongan drum with all the fierceness of a warrior.
"This is Polynesia," the evening extravaganza is billed as "90 minutes packed with Polynesian power, overflowing with aloha and dazzling with color; easily the best show in the entire Pacific." And it lives up to its billing. With a cast of more than a hundred performers, it showcases the music and dance and traditions - including a rousing demonstration of fire eating - of the islands. Costumes and sets - including towering waterfalls and an "erupting" volcano - add to the drama. The finale brings the total cast on stage for a tribute to their homelands and tangible expression of unity and peace. And at the end, not a goodbye, but an aloha - go in peace until we meet again.
According to tradition, the Polynesian culture has five gifts to share with the world: love, faith, discernment, courage and intelligence. Those gifts are found in abundance at the Polynesian Cultural Center.
*****
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
If you go to the PCC
Located on Oahu's North Shore, the Polynesian Cultural Center is an hour's drive from Waikiki. It's a scenic drive and easy to find, if you want to rent a car and do it on your own. A number of hotels and travel agencies also offer bus tours to the center. Tickets and transportation information are also available at the PCC's Waikiki box office in the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center.
The center is open year around from 12:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Basic admission is $26 for adults and $14 for children ages 5-11. Various combination tickets that include admission, meals and entertainment range from $33-92 for adults and $22-61 for children (depending upon how fancy of a meal you want).
For more information, write to the Polynesian Cultural Center, 55-370 Kamehameha Highway, Laie, Hawaii 96762.