What is it about the Judge Cafe that attracts most local glit-terati at one time or another? Go there on just about any day of the week during the off-season and you'll find Karl Malone. Steve Young frequently pops in when he's in state, and most of the Hollywood stars that come to town eventually find their ways there.
There were no celebrities there last Monday when I dined, but a man sitting next to me was taking a call on his cell phone from Budapest and loudly talking about the Olympic bid, while three gentlemen at a table close by were jovially discussing film score setups. The Judge is a small restaurant with a large reputation.Is it the food or the atmosphere that brings prominent people back? The menu is neither large nor presumptuous, nor does it change frequently. Many of the items have been there since before owner Carole Couch took over more than 19 years ago. Oh, the Plandome or Sloppy Joe, at $5.25, is a recent addition that made its way onto the menu because Karl ordered it so frequently and Couch got tired of whipping it up just for him. And the Judge Power Salad, "for our favorite vegetarians," which consists of a no-nonsense variety of chopped vegetables on a bed of crisp lettuce and served with a home-baked roll or muffin of the day for $5.95, was added because, well, this is the '90s. But pretty much everything else, from Couch's secret-recipe fresh salsa to the paprika and onion potatoes that come with all the omelettes, have been the same for years.
Many new experiments don't seem to go over too well at the Judge. Recently, the tiny restaurant in the lobby of the Judge Building attempted opening for dinner, but that lasted only two and a half months. Not enough people downtown in the evenings, limited storefront exposure and failure to diversify from the regular lunch menu all could have contributed to the dinner demise. Whatever the reason, Couch said she lost several thousand dollars before she decided to call the whole thing off.
She decided to stick with the semi-busy breakfast trade and her very hectic and faithful lunch crowd. If you want a seat at the Judge, you need to arrive before noon, otherwise you'll have to stand in line or eat at the classic back counter, which is the original. The only reminder there that you're nearing the 21st century is a large cappucino machine, which steams up an aromatic variety of designer coffees.
Straight-forward omelettes, salads, sandwiches and a few hot dishes are the Judge's specialties. There is nothing nouveau about its cuisine, although there's a more elaborate brunch menu on Saturdays and Sundays. For the most part, people come in the morning for the Alley, which is a sort of hash with ground beef, diced potatoes, onions and green peppers, topped with eggs and melted cheese, for $5.25 or the Rio Grande, the Judge's own huevos rancheros. Homemade rolls and muffins go with most meals and are also favorites.
In the afternoon, people mostly order the Wilson sandwich, and I discovered why. The meat is carved straight from the turkey, and layered with lots of ripe avocado, then sandwiched in a thin sourdough bun. It's the kind of sandwich you'd make for yourself the day after Thanksgiving, if you could get your hands on a ripe, reasonably priced avocado. It comes with your choice of homemade soup or green or house vegetable salad, for $5.75.
The hot entrees are worth trying as well. I had the calzone, for $5.75. It was a hefty offering made from a subtly sweet, flaky dough stuffed with Italian sausage, mushrooms and cheeses, covered with mozzarella and served with a dish of marinara sauce, and sauteed vegetables on the side. A small salad came with it, and the whole thing was wonderful. The stuffed potatoes, which come in Mexican, vegetable and cheddar, and steamed vegetable varieties for about $5.50, are popular as well.
And if you're in the mood for dessert, you'd be well-advised to try the brownie sundae, which involves Haagen-Daz ice cream piled atop a homemade, frosted brownie and slathered with warm, thick, milk-chocolate fudge. The pie is also good and varies daily. I tried razzleberry, which was quite tasty and not too tart.
The first room you enter in the Judge is modern black and white and will remind you of an art cafe, but the back room with its tile floors, wooden chairs, basketball memorabilia and old-fashioned lunch counter might remind you of something from an older, less-rushed, more comfortable era. The food is the same.
Rating: * * *
The Judge Cafe, located in the lobby of the Judge Building at 300 South and Main, entrance on 300 South. Serves breakfast 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. and lunch 11 a.m. through 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Checks and credit cards are accepted, but reservations are not. Take-out, office delivery and catering are available. The cafe can also be rented for private parties at night.