According to local lore, a Dutchman and a Frenchman divided this tiny Caribbean island in 1648 by standing back-to-back at the island's center and pacing off their shares.
Supposedly the Frenchman, who started off with two bottles of water, captured the lion's share because the Dutchman, who carried two bottles of beer, stopped frequently to quaff - and then to take a nap.True or not, the story offers insights into the sense of humor of these islanders who live on the world's smallest land mass shared by two governments.
The Dutch side, St. Maarten, covers 16 square miles on the island's southern end and is part of the Netherlands Antilles. St. Martin, with 21 square miles to the north, is French.
The territories have coexisted peacefully for 350 years. There are no borders, only a small obelisk that reads "Bienvenue en Partie Francaise" on one side and "Welcome to Dutch Sint Maarten" on the other. Tourists need no passports to travel the gravel road from one side of the island to the other. English is widely spoken, and U.S. currency is accepted.
The island, 150 miles southeast of Puerto Rico, has an average daytime temperature of 85 F and 37 palm-dotted beaches - one for every square mile of land.
More than a million tourists visit each year. The majority arrive on the more developed Dutch side - either by air at Princess Juliana Airport, a hub for flights serving other Caribbean islands, or by cruise ship at Philipsburg, the Dutch capital.
Philipsburg's architecture is decidedly Dutch, with wonderful old buildings that could have been transplanted from Amsterdam. Front Street's duty-free shops are treasure troves for international goods and local handicrafts. The courthouse, built in 1793, is one of the oldest buildings. The island's museum exhibitions reflect the history and culture from prehistoric to modern times.
Marigot, less crowded and less commercial, is the capital of the French side. The town is full of outdoor cafes, most of them with views of the waterfront. Marigot's harbor is a haven for yachters, and it's easy to charter boats for a day's sail to nearby islands.
About seven miles north of Marigot is Grand Case, with fine dining as well as affordable beach shack bistros. Order barbecued ribs, chicken with rice and beans and fresh salads for about $10 a person.
There are 10 glitzy casinos on the Dutch side, and small towns and old forts on both sides are waiting to be explored. Nightlife vibrates in discos and clubs, mostly near the resorts - between Maho Beach and Mullet Bay on the Dutch side and in Marigot on the French side. Many of the locals who work in the resorts prefer to go dancing at clubs in Colombier, a French town that is inland.
---
IF YOU GO: For travel information and free brochures about the island, call the respective tourist offices, (800) 786-2278 for the Dutch and (212) 529-9069 for the French.
American Airlines has direct flights to Princess Juliana Airport from New York, Miami and San Juan, Puerto Rico. Continental flies directly from Newark, N.J., and Northwest Airlines flies seasonally from Minneapolis and Boston. All have connecting flights from other U.S. cities.
There's a wide range of accommodations, from secluded suites to modern high-rise hotels to modest bungalows.
Public transportation and taxis are available, but it's best to rent a car. Avis, (800) 331-1084, currently offers the most reasonable rates, from $179.95 per week for an economy car with unlimited free miles, drivers over 21 and use of a major credit card. To support local drivers, you must take public transportation from the airport to your hotel, where your rental car will be delivered to you. You may return the rental car to the airport. No international driver's license is required, and you drive on the right side of the road.