All right, let's get this out of the way at the very beginning. Yes, Tuscany is partially owned by former Jazz center Mark Eaton. No, that fact has absolutely nothing to do with the cuisine. Think about it. Since when does dribbling and dunking qualify one to be a professional epicurean? About the only parallels I can see are that the chefs at Tuscany are about as good in the kitchen as Eaton was on the court, which could be exceptional or infuriating, depending on your point of view.
The ambience is certainly exceptional. Located in the totally revamped Bridalwood across from the Cottonbottom, it is nothing short of breathtaking. Reminiscent of an ornate Italian hunting lodge, there are many levels and rooms with elaborate windows, tile and woodwork. The gardens outside are beautiful, the perfect spot for a small wedding or luncheon when the weather is fine. This spring it was the site of one of the loveliest weddings and dinners I have ever attended. The atmosphere rivals and even surpasses that of La Caille, in that it is far less Disneyesque.The prices, however, do not rival La Caille. Tuscany is considerably less expensive. A simple entree like the capellini with fresh tomatoes, garlic and basil is as low as $10.25 and includes bread and a salad. Although not elaborate, it's quite reasonable for such posh ambience. Incidentally, I believe they make up for this on the extensive wine list, which I found even more inflated than the usual restaurant fare.
Now, just as Eaton's play was at times erratic, so is the food at Tuscany. I've eaten there a number of times now and have found a few entrees that never fail, others that never fail to disappoint. Probably the most popular, and with good reason, would be the hardwood grilled double-cut pork chops with scallion mashed potatoes, basalmic onions, and pan juices for $16.95. It's perfectly grilled, perched atop delightfully lumpy potatoes, and even if the juices are not exclusively from the same pan, they bind everything together deliciously.
The grilled rib-eye steak with red wine sauce, gorgonzola croquettes and grilled vegetables, for $22.95 also scores high. The baby vegetables are served cunningly en brochette, and those croquettes are pungent delicacies. The wine sauce tenderizes the meat so thoroughly you'd think you were eating a filet. The four-cheese spinach tortolloni in a fresh pesto cream sauce with tomatoes for $12.95 is another winner, the pleasing sharpness of the cheese perfectly balanced with the smooth creaminess of the pesto sauce.
There are a number of entrees, however, that look much better on paper than they do on the plate. The veal scaloppine with prosciutto and sage in a cognac sauce with vegetables for $17.50 was nothing more than a limpid piece of fatty meat plopped on the plate next to a forest of unseasoned broccoli. The marinated chicken breast with butternut squash, chard and tomatoes with penne pasta for $13.50, sounds quite appetizing, but mine was served absolutely inundated in black pepper so strong it made my dining companion sneeze from across the table. Our waiter was kind enough to comp us a dessert because of the overpowering aberration.
Which elicits a comment on the service. I've had some of the best I've ever experienced at Tuscany but also some of the worst. The managers were savvy enough to hire two of my favorite waiters in the city, but silly enough to hire some real klutzes. If you see a server coming toward you with a full tray of drinks, be afraid. Be very afraid. I have witnessed at least four of these trays dumped on various patrons on various nights. On the other hand, the valets could not be more polite, giving equal respect to those in Yugos as to those in Range Rovers (and at Tuscany, there are more of the latter than the former). One would think that the hostesses would be equally gracious, but this is a misnomer. They are more often unrefined, inexperienced and unfriendly.
The first courses are also uneven. While you would be hard pressed to find better mussels than those oven-roasted and generously served in a silken tomato seafood cream sauce for $8.95, the cold smoked Scottish salmon with dill creme fraiche and two caviars served on "hearth bread" read pizza crust, for $13.50, was painfully mild, unherbed and uneventful. The caviar, which usually adds zest, was unusually dry and flavorless. The herb crusted beef carpaccio with caper parsley vinaigrette for $6.50 is as limp as wet tissue paper, but that grilled peasant bread with garlic confit, olive basil butter and shaved Parmesan for a mere $4.95 will make your palate open up and say "ahhhh."
Regardless of what happened during the preceding courses, chances are your dessert will be exceptional. There is only one truly bad offering on the entire menu. That would be the cappu- cino pot au creme with raspberry sauce, for $4.95, which is served potless in a gooey brown pile. The lemon pudding cake with strawberry sauce and fresh berries for $5.50 is the perfect light, tangy way to finish your meal, and the bold strawberry shortcake with a pinot noir sauce and vanilla bean gelato for $5.50 is heaven. If there are at least four of you at the table and you want to indulge in chocolate, order just one piece of the 7'4" old fashioned chocolate cake with white chocolate ice cream and chocolate sauce, for $5.95. I'm not jesting, one piece easily satisfies four chocolate lovers. Even my hungry, athletic, 19-year-old nephew was completely sated with only four bites.
Just as Mark Eaton's strength would be his stature, Tuscany's strength would be its setting. The food is, for the most part, adequate but not striking, as is the service. It's still worth a visit or two, however, and who knows? Since the big man himself is often on the premises, a basketball tucked neatly under his arm, you may be able to tell your friends you have eaten with Eaton.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Tuscany, 2832 E. 6200 South, Holladay, 277-9919. Open for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 5-10 p.m., and on Fridays and Saturdays until 10:30 p.m. Open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Although the restaurant is large and lavish, reservations are usually essential. Checks and all major credit cards are accepted.