Downtown diners rejoice! An upscale, authentic Chinese restaurant has finally opened in Salt Lake City. The new Xiao li (pronounced "Shaw Lee"), located on the main floor of the Crane Building on 200 South, brings delightful Asian delicacies to within a chopstick's distance of the Delta Center and other city attractions. And it won't cost you an entire week's pay to enjoy it.
It also offers a little something for everyone in your party, from the pickiest child to the most dedicated vegetarian. The night I tried Xaio li there were quite a few of children there, hungrily dipping the exquisite pan-fried dumplings in a savory sauce (not unlike Japanese Gyoza, they come eight to a serving, for a mere $4.50). The children in my party especially enjoyed the beef with broccoli, for $7.95, after I explained to them that the oyster sauce was not made from oysters. They also enjoyed the chicken fried rice, a huge portion for only $4.50, and the sweet and sour pork, very lightly battered and fried, for $7.95.The more adventurous diners in my party agreed with the server: the Mandarin Triple Delicacy is one of the best dishes on the 10-page menu. It consists of large shrimp, scallops and slices of chicken breast stir-fried with vegetables, served on a bed of fried egg noodles in a subtle brown sauce, for $8.95. We also liked the Happy Family Basket, which is a blend of seafood, like scallops and squid, plus chicken breast, stir-fried with vegetables in a "chef's special" white sauce, served in a cunning shredded potato basket, for $11.95.
Now, for the vegetarians among you, or, in our case, for "He Who Watches His Cholesterol," there are also a number of wonderful dishes. I especially loved the eggplant with a spicy garlic sauce, for $7.95.
Desserts at Xiao li also go beyond the basic fortune cookie. They include a variety of cakes and tortes, plus ice cream, and a dish they call "candied fruits" which is delicious pieces of apples and bananas that have been battered and fried, then lightly drizzled with a caramel-type sauce.
There have been a number of unsuccessful restaurants in this prominent corner venue, but Xiao li has successfully erased their images, with elegant black-lacquer with covered silk cushions, and a slatelike floor. The ambiance is more minimalist than ornate, and I might like to see a little softness added, perhaps in window coverings, wall hangings or even gentle music, to absorb some of the noise. This, however, is but a small detail. On the whole, Xiao li is a much-needed addition to the Salt Lake dining scene.