Question - I have a nice set of mahogany dining chairs, but the finish is dull. How can I clean the wood and restore the shine? Linda Wigglesworth, Danvers, Mass.
Answer - Try paint thinner. Apply it with a cloth or brush, let it sit on the finish for a minute or so, then scrub with a cloth. Let dry, then polish with a dry cloth.
Question - I am having ice breakers, those 2-foot squares of aluminum, installed on the eaves of my house to prevent leaks from future ice dams. Do the gutters have to be removed for this installation? Al Costanza, Andover, Mass.
Answer - In a word, no. When the ice breakers are installed, be sure that they provide a proper drip edge for water to drip into the gutter. If the roof already has an aluminum drip edge, the ice breakers can go on top of that.
Question - Could I use Kilz to kill the stains on a concrete block foundation inside my basement? Charles Mason, Lynnfield, Mass.
Answer - No. Kilz, the oil-based primer, will not work too well on concrete. Use instead two thin coats of a latex solid color stain. Or, apply a concrete stain. Made by Benjamin Moore, it comes in seven colors, including white.
Or, for a good white surface, apply a cement-based paint. Thoroseal is one good type.
Be sure to get the wall good and clean before applying any of these coatings.
When John McDonagh of Canton, Mass., asked if there is a rule that you have to put the good side of a fence facing your neighbor, the Handyman replied that there are no rules, only courtesy.
Not necessarily so, wrote Kevin E. Mooney of Virginia Beach, Va. "While few if any building or zoning codes may require such a practice, many development restrictions do require it. Where restrictions are not contained in individual deeds but are set out in a developer's recorded restrictions, this often leads to confusion and disagreement between a homeowner and the neighbors or neighborhood associaton.
"Please remind your readers that all improvements or changes to their property should be checked against their deeds or recorded restrictions, or with their neighborhood Architectural Review person, before taking irreversible steps. It saves a lot of phone calls and heartache later, and the inevitable expense incurred in bringing the project into compliance."
Good point, and it serves as a reminder to the Handyman, and other householders, to check before jumping in with both front feet in mouth.
Question - In the past I have sprayed my deck with a mix of turpentine and oil, with good results, but now that I am to do it again, I've forgotten the formula. Is it three parts turps to one part oil? Joshua Feuerman, Winchester, Mass.
Answer - A three-to-one formula is good. With less oil (boiled linseed oil, generally), the mix will penetrate the wood better, and is unlikely to stay sticky, as straight oil will do unless it is thoroughly wiped off. You could also use a half-and-half formula without trouble, although I repeat the warning that a heavy oil application should be wiped off (as much as can be wiped off) after 15 minutes.
Incidentally, you can save money by using paint thinner instead of turpentine, which is a lot more expensive. And, while the turpentine is a good thing to use, its odor is strong and long-lasting.
Question - I have a new pine floor in my kitchen and playroom with five coats of water-based polyurethane varnish. It is already wearing badly. Is there a better finish I can use? Benita Russo, South Portland, Maine
Answer - Yes, in my opinion: three coats of high-gloss, oil-based polyurethane varnish. But because some water-based varnishes are not compatible with oil, the floor must be sanded to the bare wood before using the oil-based varnish. The water-based varnishes seem to be vulnerable to wear and tear, and that is why as many as seven coats are often re-commended.
If only the kitchen floor is wearing, you could do only that, if there is a definite demarcation between the rooms.
And, as with all varnished floors, hardwood or pine, judicious use of rugs, especially under movable tables and chairs, is a strong option, not only to reduce wear and tear, but more important, scratching.
Question - I have a screened porch, which is fine in the summer, but I would like to put in some panels of plexiglass for the winter. How can I do it, or better yet, who would build such panels? Harry Anastopoulis, Weston, Mass.
Answer - For custom-made panels, try Samson in South Boston. That company is one aluminum fabricator that will do custom work. Then you can put them up in the winter (on the outside or inside of the screens) and store them in the summer.
Less expensive but more work, for you, is to build your own frames of 1(MUL)2 lumber, to fit each of the screen openings, and staple on 10-mil vinyl sheeting. The handyman has done just that, with what he thinks is good results. The 10-mil vinyl, if you can find it, is better than polyethylene plastic sheeting, which tends to fog up and turn yellow. The vinyl is clear and shiny, and stays that way for years.