"Short and sweet."

A succinct summation of the good 'ol American favorite - strawberry shortcake.

So since it's summer . . . break out the biscuits!

And here's a whammy for the younger-than-springtime cooks out there: Classic Strawberry Shortcake is made from biscuit dough - NOT the Twinkie-style dessert shells displayed next to grocery store berries.

Although spongecake is swell, we suggest that if you haven't tasted shortcake made from scratch, you should. Whipping up a batch of sweet biscuits is another one of those "you don't know what you're missing" deals.

If you want to take the time to bake the real thing, you'll probably be patting yourself on the back (if you can reach) for actually dirtying a few extra dishes in the kitchen.

Rich biscuit dough moistened with the juice of fresh strawberries crowned with a spoonful (or two or three) of just-whipped heavy cream is indeed a "short cake" - in other words, it won't last long.

The name "shortcake" goes back to the 15th century, when biscuits were made "short," that is, crisp, by the use of lard or another fat.

In England, shortcake, mentioned inShakespeare's "Merry Wives of Windsor," is usually synonymous with shortbread, a traditional Scottish specialty.

In this country, we consider shortcake to be a rich pastry enclosing fruits.

The beloved biscuit appears in Washington Irving's "Legend of Sleepy Hollow" (1821). He may have referred to the pastry when he described a table "laid with sweet cakes and short cakes, ginger cakes and crumbling cruller, and the whole family of cakes."

By 1830, strawberry shortcake was considered one of the best-loved American desserts. Its popularity rose to the point that in the 1850s, folks spoke about "strawberry fever."

As to the difficulty of mixing and baking individual shortcakes - don't be shy.

We tested both "scratch" recipes and prepared baking mixes and were surprised to find ourselves going back for second tastes of the glorified, prepackaged mix.

However, the biscuit mix seemed to have an elusive, slightly boxy aftertaste. But by adding butter, lemon peel and a bit more sugar, a prepackaged baking mix becomes tasty - close to homemade.

Frankly, the convenience and quick-cook characteristics of Bisquick and Krusteez don't offer that much more in time-saving qualities.

It just doesn't take a lot of additional time and work to mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt with butter, shortening and milk.

Shortcake is an example of an oldie but goodie - a reminder that scratch cooking is actually healthier, tastier and more rewarding for the cook.

When mixing up a bowl of biscuits, follow these tips for better results:

- Butter and all-vegetable solid shortening should be chilled.

- For flakier biscuits, cut in fats with a pastry blender rather than with your fingertips.

- Don't cut in the fats beyond the coarse meal stage.

- For a more tender biscuit, add buttermilk with a fork just until the mixture is moistened.

- Don't overmix the dough.

- For the best-tasting biscuit, don't add too much additional flour when kneading.

- Pat lightly (using your fingertips) when forming or shaping dough on the pan.

- If you can't remember when you bought your present container of baking powder, replace it with a new supply. Fresh baking powder gives the biscuit dough the important lift it needs during baking.

When all's said and done, we would be remiss to not mention that long-gone-but-not-forgotten kiddie icon, Strawberry Shortcake. Strangely enough, the reign of the aromatic plastic doll probably didn't increase consumption of the real thing, even though the marketing madness that surrounded Strawberry and other flavor-enhanced toys was during the "scratch-and-sniff" craze.

We'll promise you one thing - A homemade strawberry shortcake is the ultimate scratch and sniff.

*****

RECIPES

WHIPPED SOUR CREAM TOPPING

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 cup powdered sugar

Beat all ingredients in chilled medium bowl on high speed until stiff. Makes 2 cups topping.

- Each 1/4 cup contains 139 calories, 13g fat, 5g carb, 17mg sodium, 46mg cholesterol, 82 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

CARAMEL FLUFF TOPPING

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

Beat all ingredients in chilled medium bowl on high speed until stiff. Makes 2 cups.

- Each 1/4 cup contains 136 calories, 11g fat, 10g carb, 15mg sodium, 40mg cholesterol, 70 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

VANILLA CREAM TOPPING

1 package (4 serving size) vanilla instant pudding and pie filling

1 1/4 cups milk

1 cup heavy whipping cream, whipped

Prepare pudding and pie filling as directed on package for pudding using 1 1/4 cups milk. Fold in whipped cream. Makes 3 cups.

- Each 1/4 cup contains 94 calories, 8g fat, 4g carb, 45mg sodium, 29mg cholesterol, 76 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

COCOA WHIPPED CREAM TOPPING

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon baking cocoa

1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Beat all ingredients in chilled medium bowl on high speed until light and fluffy. Makes 12/3 cups.

- Each 1/3 cup contains 214 calories, 18g fat, 13g carb, 32mg sodium, 65mg cholesterol, 73 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

FILLINGS

Caramel-banana filling

1 cup prepared caramel topping

3 medium bananas, sliced

Over medium heat, heat caramel topping for 2 1/2 - 3 minutes. Removed from heat and add sliced bananas. Makes 2 1/3 cup.

- Each 1/3 cup contains 76 calories, 1g fat, 66g carb, 230mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 2% calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

Hot Fudge strawberry filling

1 cup prepared hot fudge topping

1 cup sliced, fresh strawberries

Heat hot fudge for about 2 1/3 - 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. removed from head and carefully stir in sliced strawberries. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

- Each 1/2 cup contains 174 calories, 7g fat, 28g carb, 36 mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 33% calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE RING

2 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

3 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled

2 tablespoons solid all-vegetable shortening, chilled

2/3 to 3/4 cup buttermilk

For filling:

2 pints fresh strawberries

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 pint heavy cream, whipped

2 tablespoons powdered sugar, for decoration

Adjust rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 450 degrees F. Generously grease a 9-inch ring mold or an 8-inch cake pan. Sift dry ingredients into a large bowl. Cut the butter into 1/2-inch slices. With a pastry blender, cut the butter into the dry ingredients until butter pieces are the size of lima beans. Cut in the shortening until mixture looks like coarse meal. Slowly stir in the buttermilk with a fork until mixture forms a dough that leaves the sides of the bowl. Gently knead the dough on a lightly floured board about five to six times until the dough holds together (it should be soft). With a lightly floured hand, pat to 1-inch thickness and pat into ring mold. Bake about 18 to 20 minutes or until golden. Remove to rack to cool 5 minutes, then invert from pan onto another wire rack, bottom side up. Cool before filling.

For filling: Slice berries in half, sprinkle with two tablespoons sugar and allow to sit at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove half the strawberries to another bowl and coarsely mash them with a pastry blender or fork. Let both bowls of strawberries sit at least an additional 30 minutes. When cool, set shortcake ring on a serving plate. Carefully split it into two layers with a serrated knife. With the aid of another pan or baking sheet, lift the top shortcake portion and set it nearby. (The baking sheet bottom supports the shortcake ring and prevents it from breaking.) Spoon the mashed berries with their juice over the biscuit bottom, spread the lightly whipped cream on top of the berries, then arrange the berry halves on top of the cream. With the aid of the baking sheet, set the shortcake ring half on top. Sprinkle powdered sugar lightly over the top.

- Each serving contains 337 calories, 18g fat, 38g carb, 366mg sodium, 49mg cholesterol, 48 percent calories from fat.

- From Flo Braker

CLASSIC SHORTCAKE FOR FRESH FRUIT

2 cups sifted flour

1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 stick (1/2 cup) cold unsalted butter

3/4 cup milk

Stir together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut the cold butter into small pieces and add to the bowl with the flour mixture. Using a pastry blender, or working quickly with your hands, rub together the butter and flour mixture until it resembles coarse cornmeal. Add milk to the dough and mix quickly with your hands or a wooden spoon until a soft dough is formed. Divide the dough into individual shortcakes by rolling it out to 1/4-inch thickness and cutting 12 rounds or squares. Bake on a greased cookie sheet at 425 degrees F. for 10 to 15 minutes, or until light brown, and cool on a wire rack. To serve, cut each biscuit in half. Place round on a platter and top with fruit, then whipped cream. Serves 6.

- Each serving contains 354 calories, 17g fat, 47g carb, 463mg sodium, 22mg cholesterol, 43% calories from fat.

- From "The Best of Kitchen Basics" by Jenifer Lang

LIGHTER SHORTCAKE BISCUITS

2 1/4 cups reduced-fat buttermilk baking mix

3 tablespoons sugar

Grated peel of 2 lemons, optional

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2/3 cup skim milk

1 tablespoon melted butter or regular margarine

1 egg white

2 teaspoons sugar mixed with 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

For filling:

2 pint baskets strawberries, stemmed, sliced; or 6-7 sliced peaches or nectarines; or equivalent amount mixed fruit and berries

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons orange juice concentrate, thawed

Orange Cream (see directions)

Heat oven to 425 degrees F. Coat baking sheet with vegetable cooking spray. In large bowl, mix baking mix, sugar, lemon peel and nutmeg to blend thoroughly. Mix in milk, then margarine just to blend, using a fork. With spoon, drop batter onto baking sheet in 6 mounds, spacing apart and dividing equally. Beat egg white with fork and pinch of salt until foamy. Brush biscuit mounds with egg white and sprinkle with nutmeg-sugar mixture. Bake at 425 degrees F. in oven center for 10-12 minutes until nicely browned. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss fruit with honey and orange juice concentrate. Spoon fruit into 6 shallow bowls, dividing equally. Top each with 1 shortcake and 2 tablespoons Orange Cream. Serves 6.

For Orange Cream: In a small bowl, combine well 1/2 cup light whipped topping; 1/4 cup plain nonfat yogurt; 1 tablespoon orange juice concentrate, thawed; and 11/2 teaspoons honey.

- Each serving contains 343 calories, 14g fat, 50g carb, 598mg sodium, 36 percent calories from fat.

- From The Inn at Blackberry Farm

2 more recipes for shortcake fillings

CHERRY BERRY FILLING

1 21-ounce can cherry pie filling

2 cups sliced fresh strawberries or 1 16-ounce package frozen sliced strawberries, thawed

Mix pie filling and strawberries together. Makes 2 cups.

- Each 1/2 cup contains 97 calories, trace fat, 24g carb, 7mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 3 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

TROPICAL FRUIT FILLING

1 cup pineapple chunks

1/2 cup sliced kiwifruit

1/2 cup chopped mango

1/4 cup honey

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1/3 cup orange marmalade

Mix ingredients together and serve with shortcake. Makes 2 cups.

- Each 1/2 cup contains 83 calories, 0g fat, 22g carb, 2mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0 percent calories from fat.

- From Bisquick

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