The sweet scent of sage mingles with the earthy smell of horses. The only sound is the rhythmic clatter of hooves on dirt. In front, the narrow trail traverses the gentle hillside and disappears into the aspen grove beyond.
Anyone looking for a real western experience will find precisely that in Grand County, Colo.
Often considered to be "Colorado's Dude Ranch Capital," Grand County lies approximately two hours northwest of Denver in the heart of the Rocky Mountains. A number of ranches, each with its own personality, give families, couples and individuals the opportunity to experience western hospitality and to participate in a variety of outdoor adventures.
Ranches typically offer guests a weeklong vacation package that includes accommodations, meals, a horse, riding instruction and the majority of other activities. Generally, trained counselors run programs for children of all ages.
Prices include accommodations, meals, horse rides and other activities. Prices for young children are generally cheaper than the adult rates listed here.
Here is a description of five dude ranches with widely differing sizes, amenities and specialized programs.
C Lazy U Ranch
A world-class resort in a ranch setting, C Lazy U boasts of being the only guest ranch in the United State to earn both the Mobil Five Star and AAA Five Diamond ratings.
Despite this, a family friendliness prevails. "We do something totally different from other five-star resorts," says co-owner Craig Murray. "We encourage our employees to interact with the guests on a first-name basis. Our staff is responsible for keeping over 50 percent of our visitors coming back year after year.
C Lazy U has separate programs for children three to five, six to 12, teenagers and adults.
Activities include wrangler-led horseback rides, hay rides, fly fishing, trap shooting, tennis, cookouts, swimming in the spring-fed heated pool and evenings filled with square dancing, staff talent shows or listening to a cowboy singing ballads and folk songs. For more information about C Lazy U, call (970) 887-3344. Rates, double occupancy, range from $1,550 to $2,225 per person, per week, during the peak season. Prices during the shoulder season are slightly cheaper.
Drowsy Water Ranch
At an altitude of 8,200 feet (2,499 meters), the medium -size Drowsy Water Ranch is nestled in a narrow canyon near Granby on the sagebrush-covered western slopes of the Continental Divide.
Ken and Randy Sue Fosha, who have been operating the ranch since 1977, offer guests a complete horse program including fast, slow, all-day and cookout rides.
"When dude ranching started 100 years ago or so, people came out West and became guests in the ranchers' homes," Randy Sue explains. "By and large that's the type of experience you'll find here. The number one thing to do is to ride." With more than 100 steeds to choose from, the Foshas match horses to the guests' individual riding skills.
"The second-most important thing about the ranch is the friendships one makes," she continues. "At Club Med you'll seldom get to know people as well as you do here."
On certain days, rafting down the Colorado River and four-wheel-drive sightseeing trips are available. (800) 845-2292. The peak season rate, double occupancy, is $1,045 per week, per person. There are early- and late-season discounts.
Aspen Canyon Ranch
Built on the site of an early pioneer settlement at the crossing of the original County Road and the Williams Fork River, the small, intimate Aspen Canyon Ranch consists of three four-unit cabins and a large wooden lodge with stone fireplaces at each end. It lies near Copper Mountain, Breckenridge and Winter Park ski areas and forms a good base for visiting Rocky Mountain National Park.
Together with the usual riding activities, co-owners Steve and Debbie Roderick and Dave and Lisa Lewis offer their guests rafting, bow and rifle hunting for deer and elk, trout and salmon fishing, and a special kid cowboying program. (800) 321-1357. Weekly rate is $1,095 per person.
Bar Lazy J Ranch
Huddled along the Colorado River near the hamlet of Parshall, Bar Lazy J Ranch has been a guest ranch since 1912. An old family picture album on display shows photos of the original owners and their old-time visitors.
Rustic log cabins by the river accommodate up to 38 guests. Each cabin has thermostatically controlled heat. While summer days are generally warm and sunny in Colorado's high country, nights can be chilly.
Owners Jerry and Cheri Helmicki take pride in providing sumptuous meals - particularly welcome after a hard-day's ride. Menus of good old American-style food include steak, pork and roast beef accompanied by homemade breads, pastries and desserts.
A program for children three and up includes hiking, swimming, games, crafts and horseback riding. Each year the ranch adopts a couple of lambs and a calf, providing the children with the opportunity to bottle-feed them. (800) 396-6279. Rates: Adults, $1,025; children 8-18, $875; Children 3-7, $695; children 2 and under, $300.
Latigo Ranch
Seven miles (11 kilometers) of dirt track separate Latigo Ranch from the nearest state highway. Because of this extreme isolation, the wildlife is really wild, and it is not uncommon to see elk, moose and bear wandering among the pines and aspens dotting the high meadows.
Guests love to relax on the front porch of the main lodge and enjoy the breathtaking panorama across the fishing pond to the distant Indian Peaks wilderness.
Co-owner Jim Yost says, "One of our main goals is to help people appreciate the environment here - the geology, biology, etc., etc."
To help achieve this goal, Latigo offers an overnight pack trip for those who wish to participate. While on this outing, guests sleep in tents and sleeping bags provided by the ranch, and enjoy a hearty dinner and breakfast around the campfire. (800) 227-9655. The peak season rate is $1,465 per person. Children 13 and under are $970.
If you go
For more information call the Colorado Dude and Guest Ranch Association (970) 887-3128; American Wilderness Experience Inc. at (800) 444-0099 or (303) 444-2622; or Grand County Tourism Board at (800) 729-5821.
Christina Williams lives in Colorado.