Traditionally speaking, nobody cooks in quality or quantity like a grandma, the generous soul who peddles her love in ample portions of memorable food.
So, there must be an old-fashion, farm-style grandma-in-residence at Hickory Kist Deli, with a pair of Utah County stops in Provo and Spanish Fork. From the Grandma Moses-inspired mural on the wall (in Provo) to the collection of hand-made crafts (in Spanish Fork) on the shelves, evidence supports the grandmotherly touch in decor, but especially in the kitchen.That is if you can find the kitchen. The Provo shop sneaks into a Center Street nook across from Nu Skin with only five tables and 14 counter seats. Spanish Fork boasts more elbow room but sits on a nondescript industrial road near the north end of town. Even the mazelike approach fails to deter enthusiasts who regularly line up, cafeteria style, for the "homestyle deli" fare from dawn to dark.
Breakfast arrives simply: homemade croissants ($1.99) with a couple of egg, cheese and meat pairings; an eight-inch cinnamon roll ($1.49) doused with cream cheese icing; or an enormous slab of freshly baked, lightly textured homemade white or wheat bread (49 cents) plain, toasted or slathered with honey or jam.
The same homemade slabs of bread arrive for lunch and supper encores, each piled high with more than 30 possible sandwich stuffings, and all priced under $5. The Regular ($2.89/half, $4.49 whole), offers a choice of two meats (turkey, including a special Hickory Kist-smoked turkey, roast beef, pastrami, ham or tuna) and one cheese (American, provolone or Swiss), and a score of veggies, mustards and sauces. One distinctive "homestyle" note: There's a choice between mayonnaise and Miracle Whip.
The slightly smaller Mini option ($ 1.69) features a 6-inch, homemade roll rather than the hefty bread slice, only one meat, but cheese and all the other vegetable or topping options. It's definitely the real deal on the menu.
Both may be paired up with chips and a drink or a cup of homemade soup. Soup flavors ($1.49-1.99) vary from day to day, but always include chicken noodle, a richly flavored stock combined with thick homemade noodles, carrot slices and chunky bites of poultry.
Grandma's style continues in the dessert line with traditional coconut or chocolate cream pies ($1.59) or a cup of creamy, delicately flavored rice pudding ($1.25). Buttery rich, whopper cookies (99 cents) filled with chocolate or white chocolate chips, peanut butter or oatmeal and raisins put Mrs. Fields to shame. A unique final course comes in the collection of creamy homemade fudges ($6.50/lb.).
"Homestyle" deli aptly describes the options available at Hickory Kist. And your grandma'd be proud of your prudent, thoughtful selections.
Hickory Kist Deli, 42 W. Center, , Provo (373-9939) and 1529 N. Main, Spanish Fork (798-9895). Provo Hours: Monday-Friday, 7 a.m-8 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Spanish Fork Hours: Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Saturday, 9a.m.-6:00 p.m. Payment: Major credit cards, cash and checks. Rating: * * *