At first glance, if you're not familiar with Main Street in Kamas, you'd suspect the Gateway Grill is the neighborhood burger-and-fry spot that creates wonderful milkshakes. And you'd be mostly correct - alter the shakes with yogurt, and former Deer Valley chef Sean Wharton accommodates.
But within the same four walls, bedecked with Old Masters-type prints in gilded frames alongside racks of antlers, this energetic miracle worker satisfies any taste, with an exceptionally diverse menu (especially for the square footage).The interior thrives on an eclectic theme: mismatched chairs at assorted tables, all looking like Deseret Industries may have been the source. Serving pieces, too, follow no particular pattern but lend a dramatic flair to the presentation. (A server confided that a local china outlet may be the tableware source; if so, a bread-and-butter plate would be appreciated on the next shopping expedition.) Once again, the physical features, odd as they may seem to diners of this decade, fail to detract from the tantalizing offerings.
While a variety of dressed-up burgers (avocado-Swiss, bacon-cheese or mushroom) and a grouping of grilled sandwiches fill the economical ($5-7) menu, we opted for the house specialties. The Over Grown House Salad ($5.95) arrived exactly as described - overflowing an enormous salad bowl and featuring an icy, crisp selection of mixed greens, a cup of vegetable toppings and a nippy raspberry vinaigrette.
Daily special soups ($4.95) include a gently spiced butternut squash puree and an earthy Portobello mushroom blend of fungi, minced red pepper and green onion (so satisfying we took two extra servings home).
Known for his seafood prowess, Wharton prepares a signature sea bass with teriyaki glaze, which was, unfortunately not available during our weeknight visit. A gently seasoned salmon filet ($17.95) with a brisk marinated cucumber sauce and noodles sufficed as a substitute. A fork-tender, rosemary-infused rack of lamb ($23.95) completely filled the serving plate, while the porterhouse steak ($19.95), an 18-ounce portion, thrives on an unusual combination of accompaniments: black bean and pasilla chili sauce, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh basil and feta.
Whether feeding a family after a day in the backcountry or addressing the upscale out-of-town guests, this ambitious chef offers a full range of delightful dining from a surprisingly simple location. Be sure to call ahead for weekends because the Wharton magic has been discovered.
Gateway Grille 215 S. Main Street, Kamas, 435-783-2867
Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Saturday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
Payment: All major credit cards.
Rating: * * * *