A recent consumer survey indicates that Americans are indulging in Mexican fare as many as three times a week. And I'm certain that the majority of Sandy's residents picked the same Friday I did to satisfy their south of the border cravings at the new Dos Serranos Beach Grill.
Even though I arrived reasonably early for a weekend dine, I waited 40 minutes for a table. And the frustration showed in the manager: When I inquired about our position on the waiting list, he informed me that I would get a table "when it was my turn." Ironically, the restaurant only takes reservations for parties of eight or more.On the plus side, we did have ample time to absorb the eclectic beach/Mexican decor.
The menu, as well, offers a wide range of flavors, all created by chef Rene Soriano, a Mexico native who trained in Southern California, who opened his own Cuban restaurant in Beverly Hills, then came to Salt Lake City with the Gastronomy Group at the Pierpont Cantina. Soriano originated the Border Grill at the Redwood Road location nearly two years ago, then added an east-side location in January.
Soriano specializes in sauces with a slight chili punch but generally more subtle, Americanized tastes. For starters, Guacamole ($6.99) is prepared at the table and blended with red onion, lime juice and serranos, then topped with cotija cheese. We also sampled the Shrimp Relleno ($5.99), a pasilla pepper stuffed with rice, veggies, cheese and a pair of rock shrimp. (Our server returned to the table with a second serving, apologizing for the small size of our original order.) Chicken Tortilla Soup ($3.49 or included with the "house favorite" entrees) stood in a tame stock stuffed with chicken and tortilla strips, but we longed for a little zing to ignite the flavors.
A Veggie Enchilada ($6.99) , on the other hand, was packed with peppers, mushrooms, onions and a wonderfully pungent pair of chile and tomatilla sauces. Monterey Crab Enchiladas ($10.99), despite a creamy saffron sauce and Canadian snow crab filling, went virtually untouched. A slightly off-taste in the crab, and this is crab season, created apprehension in this normally enthusiastic diner. The expansive menu also includes taco platters, combination plates, chile relleno platters, salad specials and popular California Fajitas ($10-$13.99).
Desserts include the predictable flan ($3.29), but the Border Grill serves the custard with a zest of orange. The Ice Cream Sombrero ($3.99) is a cinnamon-coated, deep-fried tortilla filled with strawberry, mango and pineapple sherbets, all doused with chocolate and raspberry sauces yielding a conglomerate of flavors confusing to the taste.
Time may smooth out the bumps in the eastside Beach Grill operation, but in the meantime, take I-215 West and sample the Mexican fare at the more rehearsed Border Grill, amigo. But at either place, bring your own chili if you prefer a more significant dose of the hot stuff!
Rating: * * 1/2
Dos Serranos Beach Grill, 8657 S. Highland Drive, Sandy, 942-7988. (Dos Serranos Border Grill, 5419 S. Redwood Road, Taylorsville, 266-0898.) Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. Major credit cards and checks accepted.