Rumors suggest a spate of restaurateurs have the inside track on real estate development proposals in the westerly Gateway neighborhood. While one eatery locked its doors, three more have opened in the 300 West block of 200 South.
Two recent establishments are Pina and Xiao Li, and now they are joined by Lakota, with a spot in the old, restored Stamp Building at 400 West.Never mind the tracks (and trains) within view, or the soup kitchen of St. Vincent less than a block away. The pluses to remember: the Delta Center looms to the north and the potential for neighborhood redefinition rides on the shoulders of city watchdogs.
Lakota boasts California restaurant experience (trendy menu with interesting flavor combinations, seasoned servers and full-scale public relations). Southern Cal leisure describes the atmosphere of the restored interior. A centralized high ceiling suggests an atrium, wrapped with additional mezzanine seating (which offers an above-the-tracks view of the Great Salt Lake or the Wasatch Range). A classy, multiple-screens bar consumes half the main floor square footage.
Light chunks of foccacia bread arrive with a collection of chopped fresh herbs and minced garlic, all to blend with olive oil in a personalized recipe. For starters, a steamy bowl of New Orleans Bouillabaisse lacks the influence of its Mediterranean predecessors.
Tops on the starters lists was a Grilled Wild Mushroom Salad ($7 or offered as an entree lunch $9). A crunchy mixture of greens blended with kalamata olives, hunks of goat cheese and a balsamic vinaigrette, all buried in a collection of earthy-flavored portobellos and shiitakes.
Mustard greens join blackened shrimp in the piquant Cajun Fettucine ($12). Dowsed in a spunky red bell pepper sauce, the pasta is a generally satisfying entree. We could do without the avocado chunk garnish.
The Blackened Turkeyloaf ($13), an innovative meat/herb combination flaunts a thick, dark crust and joins mashed potatoes with cilantro gravy and a nip of cranberry jalapeno relish. A third sample, Alaskan Halibut ($16) advertises a difficult-to-identify crabmeat stuffing and a generously-seasoned vegetable couscous.
A choice of dessert offerings are evenly priced at $5. We selected a chocolate indulgence, the Brownie Banana pie, a rich, custardy mix with slabs of fresh banana over a dense Oreo chocolate crust and fudge sauce. A trio of sorbets - lemon, mango and mixed berry - offers a light yet striking finale to the eclectic menu mix.
Mixing the far-flung flavor preferences of Americana presents a menu challenge, one adequately addressed by the experienced folks at Lakota, but surviving the currently questionable neighborhood could depend on the draw at the Delta Center or the votes of the city council.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Lakota, 389 W. 200 South, 519-8300 and 751 Main Street at 7th Street, Park City, 435-658-3400. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Valet parking available on weekends and game nights. Accepts all major credit cards and cash; to become a private club.