Syndicated food columnists Jane and Michael Stern made a career of uncovering offbeat spots that offered a downhome "Taste of America." Though they haven't motored through the state for a couple of years, they should schedule a review of the blue plate special pros at the Art City Trolley in the center of Springville and just a couple of miles from I-15.
Blue plate designation begins at the front door, illustrated by a full-size, customized wall quilt blocked in '50s vintage appliques and snagged by owners Kelly and Jeff Decker at a Midwest auction.Other classic additions to the decor include a chrome-polished '52 Harley (not available for test drives) and a wall-mounted Indiana Motor Co. chain-driven cycle. A complete Richfield Oil antique service station guards the back end of the parking lot.
Tousled-hair servers in jeans and white T-shirts resemble the Fonz's buddies from "Happy Days," but the crowded tables leave no space for potential jitterbug participants.
Locals crowd the old-fashioned trolley car seating spaces or gather a bit more elbow room in the stucco addition to the rear. Whichever table is cornered, a slab of barbecued ribs or a stack of buffalo wings generally appears.
Ribs come in three flavors: a tomatoey-sweet barbecue sauce, a slightly salty teriyaki glaze called Kama'aina or the lip-sweating hot ribs with three spicy heat adjustments. A full rack with any glaze ($14.95) or a half rack ($8.95) arrives with two sides: freshly cut fries, a crispy mixed green salad, baked beans or soup of the day. (Real spud French fries, as an extra, come in one-, two- or three-potato portions.) Meaty buffalo wings land atop a basting of potent tomato sauce, complemented with ranch or blue cheese dippin' sauce.
From the sandwich board, a Philly Steak or Chicken ($6.95) pairs a crusty sourdough loaf with a thin-sliced, stacked Philadelphia-style steak or generous chunks of chicken, grilled vegetables and a smother of Monterey jack cheese. A hint of sweetness adds to the interesting flavor combination, but the sandwich arrives in a puddle of veggie juices, rendering the under bun too soggy for pick-up.
Fillin' up the neighborhood requires rack after rack of ribs, bushels of buffalo wings and sandwiches galore, but the Deckers know how to satisfy the hometown folks, even grillin' out on the front porch during the summer season. Surely the "Taste of America' begins in Springville!
Rating: * * *
Art City Trolley, 256 N. Main Street, Springville, 801-489-8585. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. All major credit cards except American Express accepted as well as checks.