Utah Office Supply was a staple of the Provo business world for years before closing recently. Now, as with other local companies that have departed from Center Street, its vacant building has been taken over by a different trade -- in this case, a restaurant.

With a totally remodeled interior that leaves nary a sign of file cabinets or fax machines, Ottavio's Ristorante Italiano joins an increasing number of eateries lodged in the crossroads of downtown Provo. (And judging from the overflow crowd on a recent weekend, more may be needed.).Faux stone railings partition multiple areas into cozier eating nooks, while colorful murals, grapevines and black-and-white photos line the walls. Unlike other restaurants, this family-inspired spot conveniently accommodates large group seating with courteous service.

With a traditional ltalian focus Ottavio's presents pages of familiar offerings at family style prices. A heaping plate of crispy fried calamari ($6.95), for example, easily feeds six. A house specialty Portobello Mushroom and Roasted Red Pepper ($7.95), grilled in olive oil and lightly splashed with balsamic vinegar also provides a generous sample for a half-dozen folks. The Il Greco salad ($6.95) features mixed greens accented by peppers, feta sun-dried tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette.

A basics sampling includes Pollo Arrabbiata ($8.95) a chicken and onion pizza sprinkled with "spicy" olive oil, but wholly bland in taste. Pollo Marsala ($7.95) also brings adequate taste to the table, but still seems predictable, or at least not memorable. The Pollo Parmigiana, ($7.95), on the other hand, boasts an ample serving with robust flavor in the sauce and in the Romano cheese topper.

Beyond the ample and homemade main-course offerings, Ottavio's slips with ready-made desserts, like Chocolate Torte ($4.95), a pedestrian but huge and slightly crumbly layer cake, or Raspberry Cheesecake ($3.95), a creamy, only slightly raspberry indulgence. Everyone's Italian dessert, Tiramisu ($3.50), is made in-house and brings legitimacy to the dessert menu.

Another stab at Old World authenticity comes in the serenades by a jovial accordion player who wanders the halls, minstrel fashion, and yodels a lyric or two in passing.

Though Ottavio's claims to bring old family recipes to the dining table, much of the menu can be described as merely adequate. Maybe it's more an Americanized version of Italian, one left behind with the arrival of so many Italian eateries in the area. One memory you will have, if you don't respond to an early weekend dinner call, is standing in line for space. This ristorante knows how to address the hungry, and piles economical, hearty portions onto dining plates.

A perfect way to do business in the new business environment on Provo's Center Street.

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Ottavio's Ristorante Italiano, 77 E. Center Street, Provo, UT 801-377-9555

Payment: All major credit cards.

Hours: Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Saturday: 4:00 p.m.-10 p.m.; closed Sunday.

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