A search on Yahoo! bypasses Torrey as "not in the database," a fact that the folks in this other red rock community must cheer. But those who travel the blue roads route though Sigurd, Loa and Teasdale arrive at the gateway to Capitol Reef National Park or the back door to Bryce via Boulder Mountain.
Veteran local chefs Jane and Gary Pankow traveled that little-known highway five years ago to hoist a marker for a seasonal (May- October) southwestern restaurant known as Cafe Diablo.With cozy ordinary indoor space in a nondescript house, patio seating with a view of a Frisbee-catching dog and hometown, friendly service, this stop offers a spicy welcome to tourists caught exploring the geologically diverse terrain.
Exploring the innovative cuisine created by the Pankows yields a bevy of choices, beginning with a complimentary appetizer, rosemary grilled vegetables with foccacio. Nibbles of squash, carrots and mushrooms boast a subtle, herbal glaze concocted from the front yard garden harvest. An intriguing off-the-menu starter, rock shrimp mesa ($7), two tidy patties of "free range" rattler accented with a nacho chili and rosemary dressing. We declined, but folks report the snake bites resemble . . . chicken?
Pankow specializes in unique combinations, but each is touched by a refined combination of flavors and textures. Consider, for example, his signature pumpkin seed crusted trout ($16); a chewy, heavily seeded coating complements a light taste of locally fed fish. The accompaniments, a touch of cilantro lime sauce and the also chewy wild rice pancake, create a striking balance of flavors, albeit with a grainy jaw workout. The rack of glazed ribs ($18), fork-tender and basted with a potent chipolte, molasses and rum brush, arrives with a plate of veggies, including quick-fried spinach, a squash saute and a tasty flavor contrast of mashed sweet potatoes. Another house favorite, painted chicken ($16), brushes a fresh lime and honey gloss over a chargrilled chicken breast to fire a tender poultry morsel that sings with the tang of the lime seasoning.
Seasoning the finale becomes the task of former Deer Valley pastry whiz Jane Pankow. Starting with a recipe for lemon bars, Pankow develops a raspberry lemon tart, which in itself is worth the journey to Torrey. A slightly sweet cookie crust underscores a perfectly tart lemon cream and a cast of fresh raspberries. For chocolate lovers, the Double Diablo features a dense, textured, flourless chocolate delicacy, while the Patty Cake contains a spongy chocolate, layered with mousse and dowsed with a rich chocolate gateau. Creamy smooth homemade ice creams in flavors like mango, raspberry or Butterfinger, and a trio of cheesecakes -- mango, key lime and Irish cream -- compile the to-die-for dessert options.
Capitol Reef and its adjoining geographic enticements suggest a viable option to other red rock territory.
Cafe Diablo, 599 W. Main, Torrey, 1-435-425-3070
Hours: 5 p.m. Daily, May 1-Oct. 15
Payment: Visa and MasterCard
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