CHOCOLAT —** 1/2 — Juliette Binoche, Johnny Depp, Lena Olin, Judi Dench, Alfred Molina, Victoire Thivisol, Carrie-Anne Moss, Peter Stormare, Aurelien Parent Koenig, Leslie Caron; rated PG-13 (profanity, sex, violence, brief vulgarity, brief partial nudity); Century Theatres 16; Loews Cineplex Broadway Centre Cinemas.
If it were even half as tasty as its name, "Chocolat" might have really been something.
As it is, this well-acted but superficial film winds up being more like a trifle than a full-course cinematic feast. In other words, the results seem satisfying but afterward leave you craving more.
In fact, given the pedigree of its international cast (which includes a pair of recent Academy Award winners) and the surprising depth of its source material (Joanne Harris' acclaimed best-selling novel), the film could be considered something of a disappointment.
That's largely a reflection on its maker, director Lasse Hallstrom, whose adaptation of the equally acclaimed novel "The Cider House Rules" also suffered from inconsistencies — most notably, an inappropriate tone for some of the material.
On the surface, this would seem like fairly lighthearted fare, a comic fable about a mysterious outsider, Vianne Rochet ("The English Patient's" Juliette Binoche), who profoundly affects the French village of Lansquenet.
Vianne and her daughter Anouk (Victoire Thivisol, from "Ponette") have been making a career of moving from village to village, going whichever way the wind dictates. In each place, they've opened up a chocolate shop, though the latest is a somewhat unwelcome addition to Lansquenet, which is preparing for Lent.
Consequently, the villagers have been trying to fast and resist earthly temptations, both of which are tested by the shop. However, Vianne slowly but surely makes friends and loyal customers of some, including abused wife Josephine (Lena Olin) and cranky landlady Armande (the always wonderful Judi Dench), both of whom find themselves liberated by the experience.
So the town's puritanical (or, to be more accurate, self-righteous) mayor, the Comte de Reynaud (Alfred Molina), declares war on Vianne and her insidiously addicting chocolates, as well as all forms of immorality.
Things get more complicated for Reynaud when a band of Gypsies arrives, led by the dashing Roux (a miscast Johnny Depp), who manages to awaken the one thing missing in Vianne's life — true passion.
That would seem to be a terrific premise for a film, one full of promise. But Robert Nelson Jacobs' screenplay is overstuffed with characters who can't possibly receive enough screen time to be memorable (including a sorely underutilized Leslie Caron, in a tiny supporting role).
Add to that the film's odd tone — such as the spousal abuse storyline, which is treated rather flippantly — and suddenly you understand how things went awry.
Fortunately, Hallstrom has a terrific cast, which does its best to bail him out.
Of the bunch, Binoche is obviously the standout, and again she makes you wonder why she doesn't get more American film work.
But as good as Binoche is, she lacks the right chemistry with Depp, who seems too young and slight to be playing opposite her. (And considering his character's French name, what's with the affected Irish accent?)
"Chocolat" is rated rated PG-13 for scattered profanity, simulated sex, violence (a domestic dispute, including violence against women), brief suggestive sexual humor and brief partial female nudity. Running time: 121 minutes.
E-mail: jeff@desnews.com