In the constellation, the Metropolitan restaurant manages to draw in a shooting star or two on a regular basis.
Take a peek through the north corner window of this industrial-chic edifice at 173 W. Broadway and you'll see a circular copper disc (it's actually a light fixture) hovering over the area. Table One, or the "UFO Table," as it's dubbed, is where Hollywood types (in Utah to shoot movies) are often seated.REAL shooting stars.
And if you've passed by the five-star restaurant recently, you might have caught a glimpse of actor Kirk Douglas, illuminated by the UFO, politely requesting, "No garlic, please," on his Diver Scallops.
The place attracts "beautiful people." Do they know something we don't?
Actually, say Salt Lake restaurantgoers, after a rather pretentious period during its beginnings, the Metropolitan has finally reached its stride and can now rival the finest dining destinations anywhere.
Metropolitan's history goes back to 1995, when Cristophe Olson, with the backing of his family, opened his vision of what a "dream" restaurant should be. Schooled in French cuisine, the art collector/adventurer's concept was fulfilled by FFKR, the Salt Lake architectural firm who designed the building in the style of "industrial Soho ambience." The minimalist interior uses natural ingredients indigenous to Utah.
Only the best materials were used to enhance the Metropolitan's ambience. Table linens are Italian Frette, recognized the world over for their superior quality. Silverware is WMF German-made. The dinnerware was selected at Limoges from the Bernardaud company. All beverages are served in Riedel and Schott-Zweisel crystal. And the beautiful showpiece cookware that hangs over the hearth in the exhibition kitchen is stainless steel-lined heavy gauge copper from France.
In 1996, Cristophe became ill and was unable to continue as owner of his beloved restaurant. His younger sister, Karen (who had just finished a master's degree in clinical psychology at Pepperdine and was starting her professional work) left Southern California and a promising career to help her brother keep the restaurant going.
There was a difficult transition period -- changes in chefs; the level of the food's complexity.
Karen has worked tirelessly to restore the restaurant's standing. She didn't want her restaurant to come off as a hoity-toity New York clone with sky-high prices and snobby service. She's learned the nuances of the Salt Lake market well, and today it caters to the community with an expanded bistro menu and Saturday night jazz. Prices are more in line with, say, the New Yorker or Bambara.
It's not just one "something" that causes folks to rave about the Metropolitan. It's an overall sense of wellness after having been pampered, surrounded by awesome architecture and fed superb food that's been artfully presented.
We call the afterglow of a Metropolitan meal "gastronomic gaga."
There's a reason for the gaga -- Frank Mendoza, executive chef.
Mendoza and creativity are interchangeable. Whether it's his five- to 10-course "Menu Degustation" -- a classic or vegetarian tasting he fancifully creates daily -- or a gourmet plate of mac and cheese at the bistro bar, his cooking is amazingly adventurous. The preface to a meal begins with an "amuse," a quirky presentation from the chef. Popular is Mendoza's "breakfast amuse" -- a tiny quail's egg over-easy atop a brioche round with a miniature bacon slice on the side. It's a delicious way to play with your food.
Mendoza calls his culinary style "Handcrafted New American Cooking." It's a way of cooking in which canned goods are a rarity and fresh ingredients rule. Since Mendoza was hired in 1998, the Metropolitan's menu has focused on artistic and elegant presentations with pure, fresh flavors. Everything is from scratch. A perfect example -- Mendoza's Caesar Metropolitan, served in a basket made from freshly grated Parmesan.
Along with marvelous Mendoza, other factors add to Metropolitan's mystique.
The service staff is attentive without smothering. New servers assist the main waitstaff in bringing plates to the table, resilvering between every course, providing beverages and hot rolls (freshly-baked, homemade daily). An apprenticeship period for servers can last anywhere from five-10 days to six-10 months depending on the server's prior experience. The result is a smooth style that puts the customer at ease.
To create the relaxed, white-tablecloth atmosphere, staffers are taught to "read" the table -- the verbal and nonverbal cues diners give that indicate they want privacy or need answers to questions. The dining experience is delicious all around.
In November, the restaurant's stellar reputation for excellent food, drink and ambience received another boost when presented with a prestigious award from the International Restaurants & Hospitality Rating Bureau. Metropolitan was chosen as one of the top 100 (of the Best 300) restaurants "in the United States for the 20th century."
Among restaurateurs, the honor is huge, as is the Distinguished Restaurants of North America honors the restaurant possess.
Obviously, the Metropolitan is an upscale destination but certainly not stuffy; instead, it's rather inviting and comfortable. You can choose the lighter bistro menu (mac 'n' cheese, "Metro" meatloaf, venison stew, spice rubbed chicken sandwich) or go with the a la carte menu with entrees that are eye-catching and sensationally served: roasted lamb loin with goat cheese potatoes and cranberry beans.
Karen Olson always selects at least one wild game meat for the menu, such as wild boar, duck, pheasant, venison, elk, rabbit, antelope or ostrich. Her hands-on guidance of the restaurant has elevated the place to a leading destination among the top dining spots in the country.
They say the neon lights are bright on Broadway.
At the Metro, they're dazzling.