Plain, simple, wholesome and hearty. Amish cuisine is much like the people themselves.

The Amish religion originated in the 1500s in Switzerland, taking its name from Jacob Amman, who founded the sect as a split-off from the Anabaptists. The movement spread to Germany; and then, in 1727, a small band arrived in North America, part of William Penn's "Holy Experiment" of religious tolerance in Pennsylvania.They are sometimes called "Pennsylvania Dutch," Dutch being the loose American translation of the German "deutsch." But not all Pennsylvania Dutch are Amish; other German settlers also came to these valleys of the Susquehanna River.

Strict, devout, believing in simplicity and hard work, the Amish clung to their old ways as the world changed around them. Eschewing modern technology -- even electricity -- modern transportation and modern dress, the Amish have created pockets of living history throughout their settlements, reminiscent of 19th century America. But to think they don't change at all is something of a misconception. New ways and methods are sometimes adapted after careful study -- to make sure they fit in with traditional values. Although the Amish generally drive buggies, travel over long distances is permitted by bus or car, for example.

Amish settlements are located in New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Illinois and Iowa. They number about 150,000 people. There is no central governing body; and beliefs and activities vary somewhat from group to group.

Life for the most part centers around the farm -- but as farmland has become more expensive, some Amish have taken jobs in factories and businesses.

And while their old ways are something of a curiosity to modern folk, Amish values and dedication are also a source of admiration among those who know of or visit them.

Food is an important part of their culture. A day's activities always include meal preparation -- setting the bread to rise in the morning, gathering and preserving food at times of harvest, fixing a hearty supper for men and boys who have been working in the fields. Because there is no electricity -- light is provided by kerosene or gas lamps -- family activity in the evenings centers around the kitchen table.

Food is also an important element of their social interaction. There are no church buildings; meetings rotate from house to house each Sunday. So each week, worship services are followed by a communal meal.

Other social occasions -- quilting bees or barn raisings -- also always include plenty of food.

Many Amish recipes trace their origin to Germanic roots; others represent early-American farm fare, with an abundance of grains, dairy products and fruits and vegetables, all home-grown.

Most Amish meals are cooked on coal- or wood-burning stoves. Luckily for those of us who might like to try some of these dishes, a number of modern cookbooks and Web sites feature recipes adapted for modern use. Many recipes allow for generous portions, so you might need to adjust to suit your needs.

But in these recipes you can find some flavor and feeling of the past -- standard, traditional ingredients and hearty, welcoming flavors -- some "comfort foods" that do indeed provide comfort.

Try some of these and enjoy -- or, as the Amish would say, "clean your plate empty!"

FRESH BLUEBERRY CAKE

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup milk

1 cup blueberries

Cream the butter or margarine, then add the sugar a little at a time, and cream it again. Add the eggs and some of the flour, sifted with the salt and baking powder. Blend this slowly, adding the milk and the rest of the flour.

Wash the berries, dry them on a towel, then dust them with some flour. Add them to the batter just before baking.

Pour the batter into a greased and floured pan, 9x13x2 inches. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, nutmeg, cloves or whatever appeals to you. Bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream. From "Amish Cooking," Crescent Books.

ONION TOMATO SOUP

4 tablespoons margarine

1/2 medium-sized onion, cut up

Celery leaves, dried or fresh

1/2 cup flour, approximate

4 cups tomato juice

Water

Salt

Sugar

Red pepper or paprika

Cream or milk

Sauté onion and celery leaves in margarine until onion is tender. Stir in flour until it is slightly browned, then slowly add tomato juice. Stir the mixture until smooth and about the texture of gravy. Add water, sugar, salt and red pepper or paprika to suit your taste. Add cream or milk before serving. From "Amish Cooking," Crescent Books.

DUTCH SLAW

1 large head of cabbage, chopped

1/2 cup vinegar

1 cup celery, diced

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

1/2 cup chopped onions

2 cups sugar

1 green pepper, diced

1 teaspoon celery seeds

Mix ingredients together and put into a glass jar. Screw on the lid and refrigerate until ready to serve. This salad will last a long time if refrigerated. From "Amish Cooking," Crescent Books.

CORNMEAL ROLLS

1/3 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup melted shortening

2 cups milk

2 eggs, beaten

1 package yeast

1/4 cup lukewarm water

4 cups all purpose flour

Combine the cornmeal, sugar, salt, shortening and milk in a double boiler, cooking the mixture until it is thick, stirring often. Cool to lukewarm. Add eggs and yeast, which has been dissolved in water. Beat the mixture well. Let it rise in a greased bowl for 2 hours, then add the flour to form a soft dough. Knead it lightly and let it rise in a greased bowl for 1 hour. Knead the dough again before rolling it out and cutting it with a biscuit cutter. Brush the dough with shortening and fold in half. Place pieces on an oiled sheet to rise for 1 hour, then take them at 375 degrees for 15 minutes.

Note: This recipe makes a very soft dough. Use flour generously when handling and shaping rolls. From "Amish Cooking," Crescent Books.

LEMON COOKIES

1 3/4 cups shortening

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 eggs

2 teaspoons grated lemon rind

51 /2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon soda

Mix ingredients together well, then form dough into small balls. Place on a cookie sheet and flatten then. Bake the cookies at 350 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes.

Variation: substitute orange juice and rind for the lemons. From "Amish Cooking," Crescent Books.

CORN PIE

Pastry for a 2-crust pie

3 cups fresh corn

1 1/2 cups raw potatoes, diced

2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, diced

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons flour

Milk

Line a casserole or deep pie pan with pastry.

Combine corn, potatoes and eggs and pour into pastry-lined contained. Add salt and pepper. Sprinkle with flour. Add enough milk to cover the vegetables.

Cover with top pastry. Pinch edges together to seal. Bake at 425 degrees for 30-40 minutes, until crust is browned and milk is bubbly throughout.

Variation: add chunks of chicken, cut into 1-inch pieces. From "An Amish Table," by Phyllis Pellman Good, Good Books.

CRACKER PUDDING

2 eggs, separated

2/3 cups granulated sugar

1 quart milk

1 1/4-1 1/2 cups saltine crackers, coarsely broken

3/4 cup coconut, grated

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons sugar

Beat egg yolks and sugar together. Pour into saucepan and heat. Gradually add the milk, stirring constantly.

Add crackers and coconut and cook until thickened. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla.

Pour into baking dish. Add sugar to egg whites and beat until stiffened. Spread over pudding, then brown the meringue under the broiler. From "An Amish Table," by Phyllis Pellman Good, Good Books.

RHUBARB PIE

1 10-inch unbaked pie shell

1 egg

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups diced rhubarb

2 tablespoons flour

TOPPING:

3/4 cup flour

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/3 cup margarine

Mix rhubarb with other ingredients. Pour into pie shell.

Mix topping ingredients together. Spread over rhubarb.

Bake at 400 degrees F. for 10 minutes; then at 350 degrees F for 30 minutes or until done. From "Amish Online" by Maryalice Yakutchik.

SHOOFLY CAKE

4 cups flour (2 cups whole wheat flour can be used if desired)

2 cups brown sugar

1 cup butter or margarine

2 cups boiling water

1 cup molasses

2 teaspoons baking soda

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Work flour, sugar and butter into fine crumbs with your fingers or a pastry mixer. Set aside 1 1/2 cups crumbs for topping.

Mix water, molasses and baking soda together. Add to remaining crumbs. Mix until batter is very thin, yet still lumpy.

Pour into greased and floured 9x13-inch cake pan. Sprinkle with reserved crumbs.

Bake at 350 degrees F for 35 minutes or until done. From Maria's Amish Kitchen Online.

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