Last year, the Food and Drug Administration allowed the soybean industry to say that 25 grams of soy protein eaten daily, in conjunction with a diet low in saturated fat and cholesterol, may reduce the risk of heart disease. Since then, soybean products — tofu, drinks, veggie burgers, energy bars and more — have expanded from health-food stores to mainstream supermarkets.
"In the past year, there's been a tremendous increase in the variety of soy products and customer demand for them," said Marsha Gilford, a spokesperson for Smith's Food and Drug. "To meet the customer's expectation, we've got everything from snacks to cookies, beverages, supplements and breakfast cereal — there's even a soy-based water product called Glaceau that's full of vitamins and minerals. We now carry over 50 brands and varieties of soy-based beverages."
At the Wild Oats health-food store on 400 South, store director Mark Regni points out roasted soy nuts, frozen edamame (soybeans in the pod), soy-flakes cereal, and half an aisle filled with different types of soy milk.
"The soy category will continue to grow, and with the increased advertising of the benefits, more people will try them," Regni said. "A lot of manufacturers are going to strike while the iron is hot. But like cream, the best products will rise to top. They have to taste good."
Just about every juice stand worth its blender already offers a scoop of soy protein powder as one of its "power boosts." Two weeks ago, Jamba Juice introduced drinks made with soy milk to its lineup of fruit smoothies. Called "Might Cherry Charger," "Orange Dream Machine" and "Protein Berry Pizzazz," they boast 19 to 25 grams of protein in each drink.
Michael Keller, national vice president of Jamba Juice's marketing, said sales on the drinks are exceeding expectations, already representing 15 percent of the company's smoothie sales.
"We don't have specific numbers for Utah yet, but traditionally Utah sales are similar to what we see nationally," he said.
But many folks remain wary, unwilling to wholeheartedly jump on the soy wagon.
Maybe they're skeptical because they remember that health craze of the '80s, when Americans gulped down enough oat bran to choke a horse. Oat bran enthusiasts made it into doughnuts and sprinkled it on french fries and then wondered why it didn't lower their cholesterol levels.
Or maybe they're confused by reports from other health experts that suggest too much soy isn't good for you.
Or maybe some consumers suffer from tofu-phobia; they just can't get past the idea of eating something known as "bean curd."
To keep it simple, let's tell the soy story this way: the good, the bad and the tofu.
THE GOOD
Scientists agree that foods rich in soy protein can have considerable value to heart health, a fact backed by dozens of controlled clinical studies. In most of the research, the subjects ate whole foods, such as tofu, "soy milk" or soy protein added to foods.
To qualify for the FDA's health claim, foods must contain at least 6.25 grams of soy protein per serving and fit other criteria, such as being low in fat, cholesterol and sodium. The heart-healthy claim is similar to others the agency has approved in recent years, such as the cholesterol-lowering effects of soluble fiber in oat bran and psyllium seeds.
One study, published in the December 1998 issue of the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, found that men who ate a low-fat diet and relied on soy as their main protein source for five weeks saw their "bad" (LDL) cholesterol levels decrease by as much as 14 percent and their "good" (HDL) levels increase by as much as 8 percent. Men who ate a low-fat diet but instead relied on meat as protein also saw their cholesterol levels significantly improve, though not as much as the soy-eaters.
Another often-quoted study, published in the New England Journal of Medicine in 1995, examined 38 separate studies and concluded that soy protein can prompt "significant reductions" not only in total and LDL cholesterol, but also in triglycerides, another fat linked to health problems when present at elevated levels.
Unlike many vegetable proteins, soy protein is "complete," containing all the amino acids essential to human nutrition. So, it can replace animal-based foods (like meat), which also have complete proteins but tend to contain more fat, especially saturated fat.
THE BAD
Most of the concerns focus on specific components in soy called isoflavones, not the whole food or intact soy protein. The isoflavones, daidzein and genistein, available over the counter in pills and powders, are often advertised as dietary supplements for use by women to help lessen menopausal symptoms, such as hot flashes.
The problem, researchers say, is that isoflavones are phytoestrogens, a weak form of estrogen that could have a drug-like effect in the body. This may be pronounced in postmenopausal women. Consuming 40 milligrams of isoflavones a day can slow the production of thyroid hormone, warns Larrian Gillespie, M.D., author of "The Menopause Diet" and "The Goddess Diet." (One tablespoon of soy powder contains about 25 milligrams of isoflavones, while most isoflavone supplements come in 40-milligram pills.)
A few studies indicate that isoflavones may stimulate breast cancer. But others show just the opposite. Isoflavones may actually prevent the growth of estrogen-dependent breast-cancer cells, according to findings published in the March 2000 issue of the Journal Cancer Research. That's because isoflavones appear to encourage the body to break down estrogen more quickly — before it can stimulate cancer cells to grow.
The positive research prompted Zoe Foods, a Boston-based natural foods company, to market granola clusters made of flaxseed and soy protein. The product is touted for women experiencing menopause who want a "natural" alternative to hormone-replacement therapy.
There are also indications that isoflavones can also slow prostate cancer cells from growing, according to a study published in the June 2000 issue of the International Journal of Oncology.
But the FDA limited its health claim to foods containing intact soy protein. The claim does not extend to supplements and substances extracted from soy protein.
The bottom line is, get your soy from real food, not from a pill.
Also, soy products aren't fat-free. A serving of regular firm tofu contains 70 calories, with 30 calories coming from fat. Roasted soy nuts are 120 calories per one-ounce serving, with 36 calories from fat.
"Soy foods are fine, if used in a healthy diet that also includes fruits, vegetables, whole grains, low-fat dairy products, poultry, fish and lean meats," said Kathleen Nielsen, a registered dietitian and director of food and nutrition for McKay-Dee Hospital Center in Ogden. "All by itself, it's not a magic bullet."
THE TOFU
If you've avoided soy foods in the past, it's time to step up to the table. Among the many new products, you can probably find something to your liking. Since not all products that contain soy ingredients will meet the required conditions for the health claim, consumers should check the labels. Make sure the products contain enough soy protein to make a meaningful contribution to your diet without being high in saturated fat and other unhealthy substances.
— Tofu is made from cooked pureed soybeans processed into a custard-like cake. By itself, it doesn't have much taste. But it can take on the flavors of foods that it's cooked with. It comes in firm, soft and silken textures. Firm or extra-firm tofu can be grilled or stir-fried, or used when you want the crumbly texture of ground beef or pork. Soft tofu is good in smoothies, added to baked goods or used in place of mayonnaise or other creamy sauces.
Silken tofu is made like yogurt, and can be used in dishes where you want to disguise it, such as salad dressings and smoothies.
Asian cultures have used soy for centuries. If you want to get favorably acquainted with tofu, go to an Asian restaurant where the chefs know how to serve it up to its best advantage, advises Deborah Madison, author of "This Can't Be Tofu!"
In Utah, there are plenty of Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese, Japanese and Thai restaurants, which have at least one tofu dish on the menu. For instance, Shanghai Garden Restaurant, at 188 W. 7200 South, serves chunks of tofu in a spicy broth, while Cafe Trang, in downtown Salt Lake City, serves it deep-fried.
Rose Chaifen Kuo Johnson, who grew up in Taiwan and now lives in Kaysville, makes a stir-fry dish that's part hamburger and part firm tofu, called Mapo Tofu. It's a favorite of her husband and children, who all grew up in the United States.
"It's supposed to be very spicy, but I make it a little milder because my family isn't used to it," Johnson said.
— Soy milk, the name some marketers use for a soy beverage, is produced by grinding dehulled soybeans and mixing them with water to form a milk-like liquid. You can drink it, pour it over cereal or use it in recipes as a substitute for cow's milk. It's sometimes fortified with calcium and comes plain or in flavors such as vanilla, chocolate and coffee. For lactose-intolerant individuals, it can be a good replacement for dairy products.
— Soy flour is created by grinding roasted soybeans into a fine powder. The flour adds protein to baked goods, and because it adds moisture, it can be used as an egg substitute, too. It also can be found in cereals, pancake mixes, frozen desserts and other common foods.
— Textured soy protein is made from defatted soy flour, which is compressed and dehydrated. If you've had imitation bacon bits or have a meat extender called "TVP" (textured vegetable protein) in your food storage, you've been eating soy all along. It's often used as a filler or meat substitute in dishes like chili and meat loaf.
— Roasted soy nuts are soybeans roasted and salted, and eaten like nuts. They're sometimes given hickory or barbecue flavoring.
— Edamame (pronounced ed-a-MOM-may) are the soybeans right out of the pod. You can find frozen whole pods, or frozen and shelled, or fresh-cooked in their pods.
— Miso is a fermented soybean paste used for seasoning and in soup stock.
— Meat substitutes: Soy protein also is found in many "meat analog" products, such as soy sausages, burgers, franks and cold cuts, as well as soy yogurts and cheese. Taste and quality vary among the different products.
MAPO TOFU
Rose Chaifen Kuo Johnson, who grew up in Taiwan and now lives in Kaysville, often makes this popular Chinese dish.
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 green onion, finely chopped
1/2 tablespoon chopped gingerroot
1 tablespoon oil
1/2 pound ground beef
1 (15-ounce) container tofu, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
1/2 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon chili black bean sauce (optional; available in Asian markets)
2-3 teaspoons cornstarch
1/3 cup water
1-2 teaspoons sesame oil
Chopped green onion for garnish
Stir-fry the garlic, onion and gingerroot until you begin to smell the aroma. Add ground beef and stir fry, crumbling it into small pieces, until cooked. Then add the tofu, oyster sauce, soy sauce and sugar. Stir fry for 5 minutes. Mix cornstarch with water and stir into the dish to thicken it. Onto each serving drop a little drop of sesame oil for flavor (optional). Garnish with chopped green onions.
MARK'S TOFU SHAKE
1/2 box silken tofu (either soft or firm)
1 cup sliced strawberries
2 medium bananas
1 cup skim soy milk
1 teaspoon honey or maple syrup
1/2 cup ice cubes
In a food processor or blender, puree the tofu and fruit until smooth, gradually adding the milk to loosen the mixture. Add the honey and ice and continue to blend until smooth. — "This Can't Be Tofu!" by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books)
BACHELOR TOFU SANDWICHES
In about 15 minutes you can go from looking at a carton of tofu to sitting down to a savory hot sandwich.
1 carton firm tofu, drained
4 teaspoons olive oil, divided
2-3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large red or yellow onion, cut into 14-inch slices
4 big mushrooms, sliced as thick as the onions
8 slices bread
Mustard and horseradish
Slice tofu crosswise into 8 pieces, slightly less than 1/2-inch thick. Set them on paper towels and blot. Don't worry about the tofu getting really dry. It will dry as it cooks.
Heat a large cast-iron skillet. Brush with 2 teaspoons of the oil and add the tofu. Cook over medium-high heat until golden, about 6 minutes on each side. Douse with the Worcestershire sauce and turn the tofu once. Continue frying until the sauce is absorbed and the tofu is laced with a fine glaze. Turn off the heat and season well with salt and plenty of pepper.
While the tofu is cooking, place a 10-inch skillet over high heat and add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil. Add the onion and mushrooms. Saute until seared and nicely browned, 5-7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Toast the bread if desired. Cover with mustard and horseradish (fresh tomatoes and mayo would be good here as well). Add the tofu slices, top with the onions, close, press and dig in. Recipe from "This Can't Be Tofu!" by Deborah Madison (Broadway Books)
TOFU AND COOL WHIP
This makes a quick dessert.
1 pound firm tofu, diced
1 package sugar-free gelatin dessert, any flavor
1/2 tub whipped topping
Sprinkle diced tofu with gelatin, turning the tofu several times. Add to the whipped topping. This is an excellent snack or dessert. Recipe from Gary and Ann Petersen, West Bountiful
TOFU AND CHICKEN
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion
1 pound firm tofu
1 pound chicken tenders, diced
1 can chicken broth
1 can water (use can from chicken broth)
In a medium saucepan, heat some olive oil on medium heat. Dice a small onion and put in the oil and saute. Dice up 16 ounces of firm tofu. Dice some chicken tenders. Add chicken to the onions and cook until chicken is no longer pink in the middle. Add tofu and cook 5 minutes more. Add one can of chicken broth and one can water. Simmer for 15 minutes. You can add some hot sauce if you want. Recipe from Gary and Ann Petersen, West Bountiful
E-MAIL: vphillips@desnews.com