To put things in gastronomic terms, "What's Cooking?" is an overstuffed casserole of some good intentions and many more missed opportunities.

And sure, the result isn't exactly the cinematic turkey it could have been, but it still winds up becoming a rather unsatisfying trifle of a movie masquerading as something bigger and more important than it really is.

Despite that level of pretense, however, what the film really boils down to is a multi-storied but interconnected soap opera, one that's not that far removed from those movies made for the Lifetime cable network — minus the exploitative themes of most.

But what's really bound to leave a bad taste in your mouth is the way this scattershot comedy-drama wastes the talents of a fabulous ensemble cast, which includes such frequently underutilized actresses as Alfre Woodard, Joan Chen and Mercedes Ruehl.

As mentioned, the film's different story lines do eventually intersect — and with the unifying theme of Thanksgiving. It's a time of preparation and trepidation for several Los Angeles-area households, including the Williamses (Woodard and Dennis Haysbert), a black couple who have decided not to celebrate the holiday with family.

If only the Avilas were so lucky. Newly single Elizabeth (Ruehl) is dreading the prospect of seeing her philandering ex (Victor Rivers) again, though the grown-up children are trying to get the two of them back together.

Meanwhile, twentysomething Gina Avila (Isidra Vega) is dating Jimmy (Will Yun Lee), the son of Vietnamese-American family, the Nguyens. If that isn't hard enough for them, the Nguyens also have to cope with the fact that their teenage daughter (Kristy Wu) may be sexually active.

And speaking of coping, that term describes the state of mind of a Jewish couple, the Seeligs (Lainie Kazan and Maury Chaykin), whose daughter Rachel (Kyra Sedgwick) is bringing her lesbian lover Carla (Julianna Margulies) to meet them for the first time.

Again, this is clearly a movie unafraid to wear its heart on its sleeve. But the film's varied attempts to broach some pretty dicey subjects in the most politically correct way is misguided.

Besides, having almost all of the families tied together in one form or another is a ridiculous plot contrivance, and it only helps muddle an already convoluted script — one that needed a lot more humor to balance out the melodrama.

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However, the fact that director/co-screenwriter Gurinder Chadha (1994's "Bhaji on the Beach") and co-screenwriter Paul Mayeda Berges (her husband) manage to develop even one character here is an achievement of sorts.

And of the bunch, those who come off best are Ruehl, Woodard and Sedgwick, whose characters at least avoid the easy stereotypes. Ruehl is particularly good, even when the script calls for histrionics, while Woodard lends her scenes a quiet dignity and grace that otherwise might have been lacking.

"What's Cooking?" is rated PG-13 for scattered profanity and some sexual discussion, brief simulated sex, flashes of female partial and male nudity and brief violence (a gunshot). Running time: 106 minutes.


E-MAIL: jeff@desnews.com

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