Summer is nearly here. The neighborhood pool is open. Kids are out of school. Time for the fun to begin! Parents, hold on to your seats. Here we go!

I had a summer treat the other day that I have to talk about. It's the good old-fashioned Utah-style milkshake.

Who makes the best shakes around? Well, that would be the Iceberg Drive-In, of course. They serve up the quintessential too-stiff-for-a-straw milkshake filled with whatever goodies suit you. These shakes are made to order in every ma-and-pa drive-in in the state, and I've tasted a good many. I like Iceberg's about the best (although the raspberry shakes at that one stand at Bear Lake are pretty tasty).

The Iceberg milkshake is creamy, with even mixing and good-quality goodies. The variety of flavors is ample, and the flavor of the ice cream, especially the chocolate, is true and rich.

My family and I tried the caramel cashew shake, the German chocolate, the grasshopper and, on another occasion, chocolate with Oreos. Of all those, the German chocolate was my favorite, with all the richness and tiny bits of walnuts.

Folks who have been in the Salt Lake Valley probably already know how fun and decadent the Iceberg is; after all, it's been around for about 35 years. Now people in the Taylorsville area have an Iceberg to call their own. This spanking-clean building is built for greater efficiency to keep up with the demand of a very loyal following.

Bigger and better though it is, it's never slow. Even just at opening, folks are ready to have an early lunch. And why not settle down to a lunch of not only the best shakes in the state, but also the best fries? I challenge you to find better. These puppies are thick and crispy and stay that way. But as good as these are, if you get take-out, ask for the fries to be put in a carton, and leave them open to let the steam out. Otherwise, if you take them in the little paper bag, you'll get home with a lump of soggy potato fingers. The steam gets trapped. They are the best, just not in all circumstances.

I tasted an excellent double burger. It had a distinctive char-broiled flavor and was quite filling. Equally filling was the chicken cordon bleu sandwich. I'm a sucker for these types of things, but I have to mentally block out the fat content. It's just not healthy to worry. Better to live in the moment, whether your indulgence is to celebrate the planting of your garden, the kids' last day of school or a final fling before your diet. Actually, most people I saw at the Iceberg didn't look like they were celebrating anything in particular; they were just there to have the best.

I also tried the fish-'n'-chips combo. This one is a good deal, but either the breading or the fish lacks zing. You'll have to sprinkle on vinegar or salt to get the fish to wake up a bit. Otherwise, the serving is ample and comes with a roll, fries and a fountain drink.

Next time I'll definitely pass on the "krab" sandwich. It comes club style and does not show off the best of Iceberg's talents. It's phony and rubbery. You could get through it if you had to, but Iceberg is the type of experience to savor, so why waste it?

Little kids may like Iceberg's famous corn dogs, known for the crispy cornbread shell. In fact, I don't think there's much kids won't go for at a place like this.

Check out the Iceberg Drive-In. It best represents Utah's legacy of the great old-fashioned drive-in. The place is clean, and the service there is friendly and efficient, even when it's a zoo.

Plus, the Iceberg's fries really are the best.


Iceberg Drive-in

*** 1/2 (out of five)

Hours: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

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Location: 1519 W. 5400 South, Taylorsville; 261-2323

Payment: checks, Mastercard, VISA

Reservations: none needed


E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com

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