CAIRO, Egypt — Like any trip abroad, a successful experience in Cairo requires both preparation and sensitivity to the local culture. Leaving the confines of your hotel room and exploring Cairo will be infinitely more enjoyable if you learn a few phrases in Arabic, dress appropriately and adopt a travel-savvy attitude.
Most importantly, bring comfortable, loose-fitting clothes. Even in the height of summer, no one here wears shorts or shows bare upper arms. All you have to do is look around to see that Cairo is a Muslim city. Oblivious tourists who wear a tank top and cutoffs in the streets stick out like a sore thumb.
It is not necessary to wear a head scarf, but skirts, loose trousers and shirts with sleeves will make you and your Egyptian hosts much more comfortable. If the clothes are cotton or linen, they should keep you as cool as if you were wearing shorts. The best time to visit Cairo anyway is in the fall and winter.
In terms of getting around the city, taxis are very cheap, but drivers often speak only Arabic. You can usually make yourself understood speaking in English, but the driver is likely to charge more if he thinks you're an uninformed foreigner. It may be worth buying a phrasebook before you leave home and learning how to fake it.
More importantly, always agree on a fare beforehand and always pay the driver through the window after getting out first. If he argues over a price you believe is fair, simply walk away.
Any Westerner walking the streets downtown will often be accompanied by a chorus of "Welcome to Egypt." Take it in the best way (most people mean it sincerely), but if you get harassed, learn to say one of the most valuable phrases a foreigner can have in her vocabulary: "Ana mish khwaga." It roughly translates as, "I am not a stupid tourist."
Places to stay
There are dozens of good hotels in Cairo for all price ranges. This is just a sampling of favorites to give an idea of the options.
Cairo Marriott:
With an outdoor cafe and shisha bar situated in a beautiful garden, this former palace of Khedive Ismail has an impressive restored interior and is located in a trendy part of the city, only five minutes by taxi from downtown Cairo.
Prices: $75 to $125 per night
Saraya El Gezira Street
Zamalek, Cairo, Egypt
Telephone: International access code is 011. The country code is 20; the city code is 2; the hotel number is 735-8888
Windsor Hotel:
Located in a small side street in the heart of downtown Cairo, this former British Officers Club's faded but clean decor is reminiscent of colonial days. From the old-fashioned lift to the atmospheric bar, the Windsor offers an all-around nostalgic experience. But pass over the in-house restaurant, even for the free breakfast, in favor of eating at one of the many nearby cafes and restaurants.
19 Alfi Bey St.
Downtown, Cairo, Egypt
Prices: singles $29 to $47, doubles $37.50 to $56. Make sure you ask for a bathroom and shower in your room if you don't want to share.
Tel: 011-20-2-591-5277
Pension Roma:
A favorite with scholars and other regular travelers, this hotel has hardwood floors, Old World furniture and a good location downtown. This place is extremely popular with return visitors, so make sure you book ahead.
Prices: single $6.50, double $12
169 Mohammed Farid St.
Downtown, Cairo, Egypt
Tel: 011-20-2-391-1088
Activities
Friday Market: Get up early (around 7 a.m.) and take a taxi to Sayyid Ayeesha mosque, where the driver will let you off. From there, take a minibus to "souk il-gumma," about five minutes away. Early morning is the best time to visit. By 10 or 11 o'clock, the souk gets overwhelmingly crowded and dusty.
Sufi Dancing: Every Saturday, Monday and Wednesday at 8 p.m. at the Salah el-Din Citadel. Take a cab to the Citadel (il-'al'a) and pay the 1 LE entrance fee. It's a good idea to get there up to an hour early, since there is not much seating. The time and location is subject to change, however, so check before you go.
Felucca Rides: One of the best places to pick up a felucca ride is at the docks across from the Meridien Le Caire hotel in Garden City on the Corniche. The cost should be between 15 and 30 LE per hour, depending on your bargaining skills, with a 5 LE tip for the man steering the boat. Bring drinks and a picnic.
Horseback and camel riding: This is by far the best way to see the pyramids. The price should be around 15 to 20 LE per hour to ride around the pyramids, with a 40 LE entrance fee if you want to go inside the pyramid itself. Make sure you get a solid recommendation for reputable stables from your hotel or guidebook.
Riding around the pyramids or taking a day trip to the tombs at Saqqarah can be one of the most incredible experiences in Cairo, but too many of the stables in Giza mistreat their animals and try to rip off tourists by demanding more money in the middle of the trip and refusing to continue with the "tour" or let the customer off the animal until he pays up.
Eating and entertainment
Alfi Bey Restaurant
3 al-Alfi Street, downtown
Very cheap 1940s restaurant with authentic and good Egyptian food. No alcohol. Price range: Between $6 and $15 for a full meal for one person.
Cairo Jazz Club: Live music almost every night, featuring musicians from all over the world.
197 26th of July St.
Tel: 011-20-2-345-9939
Cairo Opera House
Gazira
Check English-language magazines Cairo Times and Community Times for weekly listings
Champollion
Meridien Le Caire Hotel, Corniche al-Nil, Garden City
One of Cairo's fanciest French restaurants overlooking the Nile. Price range: $25 and over per person.
Guidebooks
"Cairo: The Practical Guide" (American University of Cairo Press) — This book offers excellent information on everything from how to get to the camel market to where to go for plastic surgery. It also has an extremely helpful index of transliterated Arabic words and phrases that you will use on a daily basis, such as taxi directions.
"Lonely Planet: Egypt" (Lonely Planet Press)
"The Rough Guide to Egypt" (Rough Guides)
"Let's Go: Middle East" (St. Martin's Press)