After a recent review of Sampan Chinese Cuisine, a reader wrote in and asked if I had ever tried Formosa Grill. I love it when readers ask me questions like that.
Of course, I also get people asking me if I have tried every restaurant in the state.
Wow! I do about 52 reviews each year, and one would think that means I've been everywhere. After three years, though, it's really not that many when you consider how many new restaurants crop up on a regular basis — plus the ones that are really notable or have a big change that warrants a review.
In between, I try to make the rounds to the quieter ones. That's why I love hearing from readers, because as far as restaurants go, it puts me in touch with what matters most to you. And when I ask for your suggestions on a particular subject, I appreciate the response.
So back to the Formosa Grill. Many of you know that the Formosa Grill has been around for ages. Sometimes that's a good thing in a restaurant, sometimes it isn't. If the menu and the concept were good from the start and management has pulled off the awesome job of being incredibly consistent, then it's a good thing.
Sometimes, though, I visit the good old standbys that were mediocre from day one. And, boy, when I say so, I sure get some people mad; there is a market out there for mediocre food. People love their favorites, even if they're . . . well . . . crummy.
Luckily, in my opinion, Formosa Grill has managed to be a restaurant in the former category. I enjoyed my meal for several reasons:
First, the sauces weren't overly starchy and in many cases had complexity, so the flavors were rich and the textures light. This was especially apparent to me in such dishes as the hot-and-sour soup (unusually good), the Mongolian beef and the Szechuan tofu. Many times in Chinese food, too much starch fluffs the food up and insulates it from actually getting tasted. Yuck.
Second, no day-glo plum sauce! Woo-hoo! Instead, drippy and sweet citrus sauce. Which, for the coconut shrimp (crackly and delicious) and the cream-cheese wonton (insanely genius) was pure heaven.
I didn't order from the grill but I was tempted by the pricey grilled lobster tails. This time around there were too many other fun things to try.
My favorites were those green onion-laced cream-cheese wontons and the tiny spicy chicken, a House specialty. McDonald's, eat your heart out, Formosa grill has the real chicken nuggets! If you haven't tried them, they are little battered balls of chicken, a bit smaller than a walnut and coated in a sweet-and-spicy glaze. I couldn't stop eating them! I loved that the batter wasn't too heavy.
Browsing around CitySearch, one person reviewed the food at Formosa to be too greasy. I didn't get that on my visit, and if it were going to be apparent anywhere, it would have been in the noodles. The Formosa Pan Fried Noodle was filled with soft noodles, veggies, strips of chicken and beef and little shrimps. What an action-packed dish. It was so unexpected.
Well, I think the above dishes were enough variety to accurately capture the essence of Formosa Grill. I am glad to have checked it out, and, if for nothing else but the tiny spicy chicken, I appreciate the tip.
Prices for appetizers range from $1.50-$5.95, soups $1.25-$5.75, individual dishes $4.75-$18.95, combination plates $6.95-$7.75, grilled specialties $8.95-$28.50.
Formosa Grill
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
Location: 2115 E. 2100 South, 461-0661
Payment: checks, major credit cards
Other services: take-out
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com