HYDE PARK, N.Y. — Silky, comforting cream soups are a perfect antidote to bracing weather and nipping winds.
Their velvety texture and delicate ivory color make them an elegant but versatile option, whether they're served at the start of a dinner menu, as the main course for a Sunday supper or packed in an insulated mug for a cold-weather countryside ramble.
According to classic definitions, a cream soup is based on a bechamel sauce (which is milk thickened with roux, a mixture of flour and butter slowly cooked over low heat) and is finished with heavy cream.
Many of today's cream soups, however, are made by simmering the major flavor ingredients in thickened broth until they're tender. Then the solids are strained and, in most cases, pureed and returned to the soup. A second straining often follows to get the velvety-smooth texture that's associated with cream soups.
In some cases, milk is the base liquid, replacing the broth. You may also substitute potatoes or rice as the thickener instead of roux.
A "veloute" soup is based on a light veloute sauce (which is a broth thickened with roux) and is finished with a liaison (thickening agent) of heavy cream and egg yolks. Soups finished with such a liaison are very rich and high in calories.
Trim, peel and cut vegetables for cream soups according to type and recipe requirements.
"It is less important that the cuts are neat and uniform for cream soups than for hearty soups, because cream soups will be pureed," says Joe Mure, assistant professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America.
"However, it is important that the cuts be small and relatively uniform in size in order to cook evenly.
"Garnishes, too, should be uniform because they decorate the soup," Mure adds, and they should be small enough for both garnish and soup to fit onto a spoon.
Aromatic vegetables such as carrots, onions and celery should be cut relatively small to let their flavors be fully released. If you want a white or ivory cream soup, use a combination of parsnips, leeks and celery. Other aromatic combinations, including sachets of various herbs and spices, are sometimes used in cream soups.
Finishing ingredients, final flavoring and seasonings and garnishes should be assembled and added just before serving.
Fresh sweet cream is the most common finishing ingredient, but liaisons and flavored creams (scented with ginger or other aromatics) may also be used.
Garnishes for cream soups are usually a diced meat or vegetable that reflects the major flavoring ingredient. For example, the cream of broccoli
soup in the following recipe is typically garnished with cooked broccoli florets. However, if the soup is to be stored and served later, do not add these ingredients until just before serving.
Cream soups should have a velvety mouth feel with a body, consistency and texture similar to cold heavy cream — perfectly smooth and fairly thick.
However, the soup should not taste like cream. The dominant flavor should be the main ingredient, as with the broccoli soup. The color will vary, depending upon the major flavoring ingredient, but in all cases it should be relatively pale.
This recipe for cream of broccoli soup is simple to make but elegant and refined, and it makes a mouth-watering first course. It is featured, along with more than 100 other soup recipes, in The Culinary Institute of America's "Book of Soups" (Lebhar-Friedman Books, 2001, $35).
CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP
2 pounds fresh broccoli
1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 1/4 cup)
1 celery stalk, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 leek, white and light green parts, chopped (about 1 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 quarts chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream, heated
Fresh lemon juice, to taste
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Separate broccoli into stems and florets. Trim away tough outer parts of stems. Set aside 1 cup of small florets for garnish. Coarsely chop remaining florets and stems.
Heat oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add onion, celery, leek and chopped broccoli. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.
Add flour and stir well to combine. Cook, stirring frequently, 4 minutes. Add broth to pot gradually, whisking to work out any lumps of flour. Bring soup to a simmer and cook 45 minutes. Stir frequently and skim as needed.
Strain solids, reserving liquid. Puree the solids, adding liquid as necessary to facilitate pureeing. Combine puree with enough reserved liquid to achieve the consistency of heavy cream. Strain soup through a fine sieve (optional). Return soup to a simmer.
Meanwhile, steam or boil reserved broccoli florets until just tender. Remove soup from heat and add heated cream. Season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls, garnished with florets. Makes 8 servings (eight 8-ounce cups).
Nutrition information per serving: 200 cal., 7 g pro., 15 g carbo., 14 g fat, 25 mg chol., 125 mg sodium. Recipe from The Culinary Institute of America's "Book of Soups," Lebhar-Friedman Books, 2001, $35.