I think it's about time I talked about my favorite hole-in-the-wall in Salt Lake City. It's a lowly place, by all accounts.
That's OK. The whole point of a hole-in-the-wall is that the food unquestionably defies the grungy image of the physical surroundings. And I would guess nowhere is that more true than at Little World Chinese Restaurant in South Salt Lake City.
I know what you're thinking. You know of some real dives, too, right? Maybe more homely than mine, right?
But I'm thinking, do they deliver on the other end of that deal? Is the food "to-die-for" good?
If you want to gussy it up, if you need the security of a plush dining room, I can point you in a different direction. If you want the real deal, with no apologies, go to Little World.
And, if you want a menu the size of China printed in eight-point type on a legal sheet, with more than you could possibly taste in one lifetime without getting stuck on your favorites first, then you'll surely be happy at Little World.
The good news is, at Little World, it's hard to go wrong.
My husband, Gary, has become the consummate order-maker. When I need variety amid a dizzying array of choices, I step aside and let my man do the talking. But if you're not sure, ask the hostess for recommendations. The staff is friendly there.
We shared an excellent rice plate of three barbecue meats — duck, ribs and char shu — which were tangy, tender and meaty. The three-in-one plate was terrific.
We shared a "Combination Delight" of sweet-and-sour chicken with ham-fried rice, an egg roll, a tempura-type shrimp, fried wonton and egg-drop soup.
The thing that's so great about the sweet-and-sour (besides decent-size pieces of meat) is the sauce. It's real. Not the day-glo red stuff. The batter was ultra-light, not greasy tasting. Same for the other fried things.
The ham-fried rice was tender and moist, with juicy, non-uniform bits of ham.
Pan-fried noodles with shrimp is a mild selection. I thought the sauce was a little on the thick side. But the fine, crispy noodles matched well with the flavors and textures of a few vegetables, mushrooms and shrimp.
In the vegetable category, you will be enlightened by the Buddha Supreme. I really mean it. The sauce is light and brimming with bright, tender-crisp vegetables, mushrooms and hunks of seared tofu. This dish is a treasure. It is satisfying and hearty. Yum.
I've never had a meal at Little World I didn't love. There's so much to choose from, it's hard to know what to pick sometimes. My advice is to start out with Chinese dishes you're familiar with. You'll see the difference with those and no doubt move on to other recipes on the menu before long.
Venturing into the unlikely places can be its own reward. Little World is honest and affordable. With regard to the shop, they make few concessions to appease anyone besides the Health Department, and that's fine with me. The treasure is in the passion for authentic food and good value.
Prices for appetizers $1.95-$6.25, soups 65 cents-$5.95 (some prices reflect cup portion), main selections $4.55-$11.95, combinations $7.25, family dinners for three to eight persons $21.95-$54.95.
Little World Chinese Restaurant
**** (out of five)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
Location: 1356 S. State
Phone: 467-5213, 487-8115
Payment: major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
Other services: take out
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com