One of the reasons I really try to stay away from reviewing chain restaurants is because I find that most people know what to expect from the majority of them.
Most chains are so streamlined in their systems that the food is compromised. You find a lot of prefabbed food. A lot of standardization in the recipes for the sake of easy-and-quick preparation.
I visit the chains but not often.
Local chains are another story. I tend to look a little closer. They usually have some character left in them and they're generally not so "corporatized."
Thanks to a referral by a reader, I visited one such local chain this week — Smoky Mountain Pizza & Pasta. This is a place that seems to have all that's good in a smoothly running larger operation, without the slick, glossy, overprocessed feel.
Smoky Mountain is primarily an Idaho thing. The Sandy location is the only Utah store in the chain. But many of us have Idaho connections in one form or another, so you may have visited Smoky Mountain there.
The first thing you notice about Smoky Mountain is that it doesn't take itself too seriously. It has an ambience of fun and relaxation. But that's not to say it isn't serious about good food; the menu is diverse, with influences in an Italian/Southwest direction.
My family and I started at Smoky Mountain with coconut shrimp and creamy spinach-and-artichoke dip, with sourdough bread chips. Both were gone fast. The light, medium-size shrimp were like candy, and the dip was ever so creamy, with a sharp garlic kick.
We tried three different pizzas: barbecue chicken, Favorite Sun and Fire Pie. The barbecue was unexpected, in that it didn't really taste smoky. I liked it though. It was loaded down with chicken, black beans, corn, tomatoes, cilantro and smoked gouda.
Favorite Sun, with its cheese, spinach and pine-nut recipe is a neat one. I liked the tangy-sweet red sauce.
Fire Pie is a melange of five different peppers and pretty much lives up to its name.
Others that looked fun were Buffalo, Rustica and Santa Fe.
You can build your own pizza at Smoky Mountain, or choose from several fun house titles. There's an all-veggie called the Primavera with zukes, onions and peppers. Or try the tame Ketchum combo of pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, olives and bell peppers.
There's even one called Wise Pie, with no meat or cheese, just veggies.
I like the pizza at Smoky Mountain. The fresh-made chewy crust is fantastic. My only gripe with the pies I tried was that they were too loaded down with sauce, and in some places, toppings, too.
Smoky Mountain also has an adventurous pasta menu with all varieties represented. We tried the Ragin' Cajun linguine, with its spicy andouille sausage and mild light-cream sauce. You really don't get the impact of the dish until you eat the sausage, but the pasta was well prepared.
Other pastas that look interesting are the Sonoma Chicken with penne, the pesto and feta — with your choice of pasta — and the jalapeo black-bean ravioli.
Smoky Mountain has respectable focaccia sandwiches. I loved the basil-infused Margherita.
You may know of Smoky Mountain if you're in the Sandy area, or if you have connections in Idaho. If you've passed by and wondered, now you know my take on things. I was happy there. I had fun. I really enjoyed the fun flavors and fresh food. It's a (local) chain worth going to.
Prices for appetizers range from $1.25-$6.99, salads $2.50-$7.55, sandwiches and focaccia $6.25-$8.95, pizzas (ranging from 8 inches-18 inches) $4.25-$21, pasta $7.55-$10.55, house specialty plates $7.25-$10.95, calzones $7.95, kids meals $3.99, dessert $4.95, lunch specials $6.25-7.95.
Smoky Mountain Pizza & Pasta
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-11p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Location: 1850 E. 9400 South, Sandy
Phone: 523-7070
Payment: local checks, major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
Other services: take-out, delivery, catering
E-mail: stephanie@desnews.com