OREM — I didn't want to like it. I'd sized it up as a heat 'n' eat mega-chain. I avoided it. Then my friend, Kellene, told me it was different. She was right.
Mimi's Cafe is what I'd call a cut above other chains. This is a good thing for those of us who are on the lookout for an affordable, reliable restaurant to add to our list of trusty standbys.
I like that Mimi's has great hours. They are open for breakfast and open until way past my kids' bedtime.
I like that Mimi's has a large loosely jazz-and-creole-themed menu. There's a lot to choose from, so it's great for larger groups. There's a variety of burgers, from which you may choose a beef patty, or switch out a veggie or turkey burger. There are healthy choices and, well, decadent ones, too. Portions are large. You definitely get a good value with attention paid to the idiosyncrasies of diners with special needs.
The atmosphere at Mimi's is arty and cheerful. It's the best crowd-pleaser place I've been to in a while, and yet, it was perfect for a "girls-night" date with just my sister, Angie, this week. We gabbed and lingered, and our server never rushed us.
Angie and I started with a sampler appetizer plate called the Jazz Fest. Angie's not one for fried things, and me, well, who am I kidding! And though I love fried things, I am particular that they are light without being greasy, and I'm picky about breading, too.
The Jazz Fest was a lot of fun with its chicken tenders (not overdone), popcorn shrimp (not too much breading), and seasoned Santa Fe potato cakes (ultra light and pillowy). Our server also started us out with a complimentary basket of rolls and the housemade carrot-spice bread. Mmmm . . . tasty.
Next course: soup and salad. I wasn't crazy about my dinner salad, as the lettuce was mostly stems. It could have been leafier, for sure.
The French onion soup was fantastic. It was smooth and layered with flavor — not bitter or sour. I had the pot roast with vegetables and seasoned mashed potatoes. I loved this ample and tender dish of moist shredded beef. I wasn't so fond of the gravy; it had a phony taste to it. But the tender-crisp vegetables were great.
With the Tuscan grilled chicken, Angie had plenty on her plate, too. The seasoned breast meat was so tender, I suspected it may have been brined. Angie had the rosemary-laced roasted red potatoes with her veggies.
If these two entrees represent the menu, then I feel they do it well. On another trip I would come in for breakfast and get stuffed French toast and other hearty breakfast plates, or I would come back for the BBQ meatloaf, cider-glazed pork chops or the Pacific Rim crab cakes. Some selections may be inevitably better than others, but overall Mimi's seems to be very consistent.
The dessert tray has all the crowd pleasers: key lime pie, pecan-chocolate-chip pie, apple cobbler, brownies a la mode, cheesecake and bread pudding.
These things are so large, they are perfect for sharing. We shared the not-too-sweet bread pudding, though I've heard good things about the creamy key lime pie.
I didn't want to like Mimi's, but I do. It's good to relearn the don't-judge-a-book-by-its-cover lesson once in a while. It's the homemade touches, such as interesting breads, muffins, sauces and such that make this chain a special exception to the ho-hum national franchise experience. It's also the classic and interesting recipes that cover the gamut with a unique style.
I admit it. I'm a new fan of Mimi's, in spite of myself.
Prices for appetizers range from $5.99-$8.99, soups $3.99-$4.99. salads $5.99-$7.99, sandwiches and burgers $5.99-$8.49, entrees $8.99-$13.99, desserts $3.99-$4.99.
Mimi's Cafe
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Daily, 7 a.m.-11 p.m.
Location: Utah locations in Sandy, Murray, Orem; reviewed at 304 E. University Parkway, Orem
Phone: 801-765-1500
Payment: checks, major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
Other services: takeout
Stephanie Tanner-Brown is a free-lance writer and designer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com